Mini Mrs. Claus Amigurumi – Free Crochet Pattern

This Mini Mrs. Claus Amigurumi makes the perfect addition to your holiday décor, especially when paired with the Mini Santa Amigurumi. Mrs. Claus can sit on a shelf or table, or you can add a loop to her back and hang her from your holiday tree (or sit her on a branch)! She also makes a great stocking stuffer! So many ideas! I hope you love working up Mrs. Claus and she puts you in the holiday spirit!  

To crochet this Mini Mrs. Claus Amigurumi, the body and head are worked up as one piece. The legs, arms, hair, and apron will be crocheted separately and sewn on.

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This Mini Mrs. Claus Amigurumi pattern is available for FREE on this website. If you’d like an ad-free, printable PDF version, you may purchase it for a small fee from my Etsy or Ravelry shops. Thank you so much for supporting Loops & Love Crochet!

If you are looking for some other fun little holiday themed amigurumi patterns, check out the Mini Santa Amigurumi, as well as the Christmas in July Series.

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. This is done at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting Loops & Love Crochet!

Materials:

  • Worsted weight yarn – You can use any worsted-weight yarn for this project. I used Caron Simply Soft yarn in Red, White, Black, and Bone. You can find this yarn on Yarnspirations or on Amazon!
  • 3.25 mm crochet hook (or your favorite size hook for amigurumi – This just may change the size of your Mrs. Claus slightly larger or smaller)
  • Safety eyes – I used 8mm size
  • Stuffing (any fiber-based stuffing works)
  • Yarn needle for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.

Stitches Used:

  • Ch – chain
  • Sl St – slip stitch
  • SC – single crochet
  • HDC – half double crochet
  • DC – double crochet
  • INV DEC – invisible single crochet decrease – insert hook into front loop of next stitch, then insert your hook into the front loop of the following stitch (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 remaining loops on hook.  There are many video tutorials of the invisible decrease on YouTube, if needed.
  • SC DEC – single crochet decrease – this is the same as the invisible decrease above, but you will insert your hook into both loops (rather than just the front loop).

Finished Size:

  • When finished, your Mini Mrs. Claus Amigurumi will be approximately 8” tall from the bottom of the feet to the top of the hair bun.

Important Notes:

  • Magic Circle – Make a circle with your yarn, insert crochet hook into circle and draw up a loop. Chain 1 and then start making the stitches of round 1 into the ring. If you are unsure of how to make a magic circle, check out THIS VIDEO TUTORIAL on my YouTube Channel!
  • Continuous Rounds – Most of this pattern is worked up in continuous rounds, which means that you will not be joining the last stitch of the round with the first one. Instead you’ll need to keep track of where each round started and how many stitches you have made because after each round you’ll continue right on to the stitches of the next round (with no join).  It is useful to use a stitch marker (or a piece of yarn) to mark the start or end of each round.
  • Joining Rounds – A few parts of this pattern are worked in joining rounds, which means that you will be joining the last stitch of the round to the first one with a slip stitch and than chaining 1 (or 2) before continuing with the next round. Make the first stitch of the next round in the same stitch as the chain 1. The chain 1 (or 2) does not count towards the stitch count.
  • Color Changes (when working in continuous rounds)  – When working in continuous rounds (without joining), color changes might be more obvious on the arms and legs, or where the body meets the head. When you attach the arms to the body, try to line up the color change towards the back of the body or on the inside where it touches the body so the color change is in a less visible place.  The color change for the legs will be on the back (because of the foot shaping). You can also keep the color change from where the body meets the head at the back as well so it’s less noticeable.
  • Color Changes (when working in joining rounds) – When working in joined rounds and making a color change, I like to use this method: Work the last stitch of the round as you would normally right up until the last yarn over. Yarn over in the new color and then join with a slip stitch to the top of the first stitch of the round. Pull the tail tight and crochet a few stitches over it until you feel it’s secure.

Body

The body and head are worked up as one piece. Add stuffing to the body as you go. Remember to stuff firmly, but not so firm that you can see the stuffing through the stitches. Make sure the top of the body is well stuffed before moving on to working up the head.

Round 1: In red, magic circle, chain 1, make 6 SC into ring (6)

Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (18)

Round 4: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 2, repeat around (24)

Round 5: 2 SC in first, SC in next 3, repeat around (30)

Round 6: 2 SC in first, SC in next 4, repeat around (36)

Rounds 7-9: SC in each stitch around (36)

Round 10: Work this round is the back loops only. SC in each stitch around (36)

Round 11-12: SC in each stitch around (36)

Round 13: INV DEC, SC in next 4, repeat around (30) 

Round 14: SC each stitch around (30)

Round 15: INV DEC, SC in next 3, repeat around (24)

Round 16: SC in each stitch around (24)

Round 17: INV DEC, SC in next 2, repeat around (18)

Round 18: SC in each stitch around (18)

Round 19: INV DEC, SC in next stitch, repeat around (12)

*Change to skin color in the last stitch of round 19 (see notes on color changes above). Do not fasten off. Continue right on to the increases as you start to work up the head. Round count will start back at 1 for the head section below.

Make sure you have added enough stuffing to the body. You’ll be able to sneak a little more into the neck area after you work up a few rounds of the head. An unsharpened pencil or chopstick make a great stuffing helper to get stuffing in some of those narrow places. 😉

Head

Round 1: SC in each stitch around (12)

Round 2: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (18)

Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 2, repeat around (24)

Round 4: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 3, repeat around (30)

Rounds 5-10: SC in each stitch around (30)

*Insert safety eyes between rounds 8 and 9. I placed them about 5 stitches apart. Choose the front of your Mrs. Claus by keeping the color change from where you changed from red to skin color in the middle of the back of the body. If you are adding eyelashes, first place the safety eyes where you would like them, but do not secure the back. Take the safety eyes out and use your yarn needle to stitch on the eyelashes first. Then place the safety eyes back in and secure the backs. Use the image below from another one of my patterns to see how to sew on the eyelashes. You can also stitch on the mouth at this point too or wait until later.

 

Round 11: INV DEC, SC next 3 stitches, repeat around (24)

*Start stuffing the head here before the opening gets too small. Continue stuffing as you go.

Round 12: INV DEC, SC next 2 stitches, repeat around (18)

Round 13: INV DEC, SC next stitch, repeat around (12)

*Make sure you have added enough stuffing by this point.

Round 14: INV DEC around (6)

Fasten off and sew hole closed. Weave in ends.

Continue to instructions below to add the “skirt” to the bottom of the dress.

Adding the Skirt

The skirt is worked in joined rounds, not continuous rounds. This means you will join the last stitch to the first with a slip stitch, chain 2 and then continue with the next round.

Round 1: Make a slip knot with red yarn. With the head facing towards you, join the slip knot through one of the front loop stitches of round 10 on the back of body. You will be able to see the front loops because they are where you made the round of back loop stitches when you worked up the body. Chain 2, 2DC in first stitch, DC in next 5 stitches. Repeat around. Join to top of first DC with a Sl St. Chain 2. (42)

Round 2: DC in each stitch around. Change color to white. Join, ch 1. (42)

Round 3: SC in each stitch around. Join to first stitch. (42)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

(See photo below – note this step by step photo is from the Mini Santa Amigurumi pattern, but it uses the same technique)

Legs (make 2)

The legs are worked in continuous rounds. Stuff the legs as you go. I mostly stuffed the boot/foot area and then gently stuffed the rest of the lower leg. If you add too much stuffing towards the top of the leg, it will affect your Mrs. Claus’ ability to sit independently.

Round 1: In black, magic circle, chain 1, 6 SC into ring (6)

Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 5 stitches, 2 SC in next stitch, SC in last 5 stitches (14)

Round 5: SC in first 4 stitches, INV DEC, INV DEC, SC in last 4 stitches (10)

Rounds 6-7: SC in each stitch around (10). Change to white at the end of round 7.

Round 8: SC in each stitch around (10). Change color to red.

Rounds 9-16: SC in each stitch around (10)

Fasten off, sew top of leg closed. Make sure that you sew the top closed with the front of the boot/foot facing you.  Leave a yarn tail long enough to sew the legs to the body.

Sew legs onto the bottom of the body. I lined them up around the middle of the bottom the body. Using your yarn needle and yarn tails, sew around the tops of the legs only to attach them to the bottom of the body. This is so your Mrs. Claus can sit or have the legs hang straight too.

Note: if it’s really important to you that your Mrs. Claus can sit independently, make sure you test where you put the legs to make sure she is able to sit without falling over. The skirt helps support her sitting a bit too. She can also sit leaning against a wall or another item to support her too.

Arms (make 2)

Gently stuff the arms as you go, adding stuffing only to the bottom third (hand/wrist area).

Round 1: In skin color, magic circle, ch 1, 6 SC into ring (6)

Round 2: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 2 stitches, repeat around (8)

Round 3: SC in each stitch around (8). Change color to white.

Round 4: SC in each stitch around (8). Change color to red.

Rounds 5-13: SC in each stitch around (8)

Fasten off, sew the top of the arms closed. Leave a long tail to sew onto body.

Sew the arms onto the body – Attach the arms on the sides of the body in the second round of stitches below the head. Sew in and out of each stitch at the top of the arms. Weave in ends.

Hair

To create this bun hair style, you will start by crocheting in the round to create a wig cap. Then you will work up the bun section and sew it to the wig cap on the angel’s head.  

Wig Cap

Round 1: In hair color, magic circle, chain 1, make 6 SC into ring (6)

Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (18)

Round 4: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 2, repeat around  (24)

Round 5: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 3, repeat around  (36)

Round 6: HDC in first 3 stitches, DC in next stitch, 2 DC in next, DC in next, HDC in next 3 stitches, SC in next 4 stitches. Join with a sl st to next stitch. (14)

*Note that this round is only a partial round and not completed the full way around the wig cap.

Fasten off, leave a tail to sew the wig cap to the head.

Bun

Round 1: In hair color, magic circle, chain 1, make 6 SC into ring (6)

Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)

Rounds 3-4: SC in each stitch around (12)

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing on to the angel’s head.

Line up the wig cap on the angel’s head. Make sure you center the “bangs” section. The 2DC in round 5 should line up in the middle of the forehead. Use your yarn needle and one of the yarn tails to sew the wig cap on the head. I attached the wig cap by passing my yarn needle in and out of the stitches around the edge of the wig cap, passing in and out of a stitch on the head each time. I did not sew through every stitch, but approximately every second stitch. Then I added a few stitches towards the top. Check to make sure the wig cap is secure on the head (add more stitches as needed). Then weave in your yarn tail and cut the yarn.

Next, to attach the bun part, start by adding a bit of stuffing to the inside of the bun to help it hold its shape. Then position the bun where you like it on top of the wig cap on the angel’s head. Use your yarn needle to sew around the stitches along the edge of the bun, attaching it to the wig cap. When the bun is secure, weave in ends and cut yarn. 

Lastly, using red yarn, create a chain long enough to go around the seam at the bottom of the bun (my chain was about 16 stitches long, but they will vary in length). Use your yarn needle to sew the chain around the bottom of the bun, hiding the seam where the bun was sewn on. I joined the chain at the back of the bun, forming a circle, and then just added a couple of stitches to secure the chain in place. You will not need to sew around every stitch of the chain.

Belt

In white yarn, make a chain long enough to go around the middle of your Mrs. Claus (right above the seam of where the skirt is attached. My chain was 20 stitches, but yours might be a little more or less depending on how stuffed your Mrs. Claus is. Fasten off and use your yarn needle and yarn tails to sew the belt on to your doll. I started at the back and then just added a stitch at each of the sides and front and back to keep the belt in place. The apron will be attached to the belt next.

Apron

Row 1: In white yarn, chain 6. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each across, ch 1, turn (5)

Rows 2-3: SC in each stitch across, ch 1, turn (5)

Row 4: 2 SC in first st, SC in next 3, 2 SC in last, ch 1, turn (7)

Row 5: 2 SC in first st, SC in next 5, 2 SC in last, ch 1, turn (9)

Row 6: 2 SC in first st, SC in next 7, 2 SC in last, ch 1, turn (11)

Row 7: 2 SC in first st, SC in next 9, 2 SC in last, ch 1, turn (13)

Rows 8-10: SC in each stitch across, ch 1, turn (13)

*after row 10, do not ch 1.

Fasten off, use yarn tails to sew the apron onto the body.

Line the apron up on Mrs. Claus’ body, about one round below the top of the dress. Use your yarn needle and the yarn tails to sew across the top of the apron and then make a few stitches along the sides. Add a couple stitches on both sides of the apron to attach it to the belt. Lastly, either using a yarn tail you have left, or a new piece of white yarn, create a strap at the top of the apron that passes from one corner of the top of the apron, around the back of the head, and then joins to the top of the apron on the other side. Weave in all ends.

Last, but not least, add a mouth to your Mrs. Claus. I separated a piece of red yarn into half (2 strands/threads) and used the yarn needle to create a smile by sewing a couple of stitches forming a ‘V’ in the middle of the face, below the eyes.

You are all finished! I hope you loved making your Mini Mrs. Claus Amigurumi! Have fun deciding where to place her, or maybe you’ll be gifting or sneaking her into a stocking for a little one to find!

**Want to be kept in the loop? Be sure to like Loops and Love Crochet on Facebook and join the Loops and Love Crochet Group! Don’t forget to follow @loopsandlovecrochet on Instagram! Remember to tag Loops and Love Crochet when you post your fnished projects on social media! I’d love to see them! **

*You may make and sell any items made from my patterns, but please link back to my blog or Loops & Love Crochet as the designer. Please do not copy this pattern or photos and share as your own, in part or in whole.  Instead, link back to the Loops and Love Crochet blog (especially when selling items you make from my patterns). Thank you!

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