Jelly Messy Bun Beanie – Free Crochet Pattern

The Jelly Beanie is such a fun one to work up, so naturally a messy bun version had to come next! As a frequent ponytail and bun wearer over here, I know the value of not having to choose between a hat and having your hair up. The Jelly Messy Bun Beanie has all of the squishy, fun texture of the original Jelly Beanie, just with an opening at the top for your ponytail or bun! I hope you enjoy this pattern!  

Remember to like Loops and Love Crochet on Facebook and join the Loops and Love Crochet Group! I’d also LOVE it if you followed @loopsandlovecrochet on Instagram!

If you like crochet video tutorials, check out (and subscribe to) my Loops and Love Crochet YouTube Channel!

If you’re looking for the regular Jelly Beanie (non-messy bun), you can find the free pattern HERE.

Pin this post to your favorite Pinterest boards to save it for later!

This pattern is available for FREE on this website. If you’d like an ad-free, printable PDF version, you may purchase it for a small fee from my Etsy or Ravelry shops. Thank you so much for supporting Loops & Love Crochet!

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. This is done at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting Loops & Love Crochet!

Materials:

  • Worsted Weight yarn (#4 weight) – You can use any worsted-weight yarn for this project. Referring to the photo above, the beanie on the top was made with Caron Simply Soft yarn in Blue Mint and Times Square. The one on the bottom was made with I Love This Yarn in Sea Muse and Amethyst. (Note – if you’re in the UK, you’ll be looking for Aran weight, instead of worsted weight).
  • 5 mm crochet hook (I crochet a little bit on the tighter side and I used a 5mm hook. If you crochet loosely, it might be a good idea to go down a hook size so the beanie comes out the right size. Check the gauge measurements listed below. I always use (and honestly love) my Clover Amour hook set!
  • Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)

Stitches Used:

  • Ch – chain
  • Sl St – slip stitch
  • SC – single crochet
  • DC – double crochet
  • FPSC – front post single crochet
  • SC DEC (or Sc2tog) – single crochet decrease
  • DC DEC (or Dc2tog) – double crochet decrease
  • Puff Stitch – Yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, repeat this 3 more times into the same stitch (9 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all loops on hook. Finish with a chain 1.

Gauge

  • 8 rows of ribbing = approx. 2” long
  • Each section including two rounds of Puff Stitches with a round of SC and a round of FPSC measures approx. 1.5” tall.
  • When you finish the ribbing for the size of beanie you are making, make sure it is approximately the same length as what it states in the pattern for that size.  This is so your beanie comes out the right size and fits properly.  

Important Notes:

  • Always start the first stitch of the round in the same space as the chain 1 or chain 2.
  • Chain stitches at the start of each round do not count towards stitch count.
  • This pattern is worked in joining rounds. When you finish the stitches of one round, you will be joining to the first stitch of the round with a slip stitch, chaining 1 (or 2) and then starting the next round of the pattern, starting in same stitch as chain.
  • While you are making the ribbed band, you should only need to stretch it gently to fit around your head. When you start working on the hat height and make the first row of SC and FPSC in the ends of the ribbing rows, be sure to keep your tension loose enough. If you work this round too tight, your hat will not have much stretch to it.
  • I crochet a little on the tighter side. If you crochet quite loosely or more tightly, you may need to go up or down a hook size to get the desired hat size. Check the gauge of the pattern. If you are unsure about size, you can start with crocheting some of the ribbing and then measure it to check that your gauge matches closely.
  • Photo Tutorial – I have a photo tutorial section at the end of the pattern to help with the instructions and stitches. I hope you find the step by step photos helpful!
  • Video Tutorial – Check out the video on my YouTube Channel for a tutorial on how to work up all the stitches in the Jelly Beanie, which will definitely help you with the Messy Bun Beanie too. You can find the video here.

JELLY MESSY BUN BEANIE PATTERN

CHILD SIZE

Approximately 3-10 years

Head circumference: 19-21”

Hat height: approx. 6.5”

Ribbed Band:

In main beanie color,

Row 1: Chain 8. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across. Chain 1, turn. (7)

Row 2: SC in back loops only across. Chain 1, turn. (7)

Rows 3-60: Repeat row 2.

At this point, the ribbing should measure about 15-15.5 inches long, without stretching it. (If you’ve already stretched it to fit around a head, it might be a little longer than the measurement here).

Fold ribbing in half and join ends with a slip stitch. Then slip stitch in each stitch across. When you get to the end, flip the ribbing so the stitches are on the inside and your loop is at the top. Chain 1 and start the instructions below for the hat body.  Your first SC stitch will be in the same stitch as the chain 1. (See photo tutorial below)

Hat body:

Round 1: SC in first stitch (same stitch as chain 1) and in each stitch around. Join with a sl st to first stitch, chain 1. (60)

*Make sure you don’t work this round into the ribbing too tightly. It’s best to keep a looser tension here so that the ribbing is able to stretch as much as needed to fit on the head of the person who is wearing it. 

Round 2: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure you go around each of the stitches from the previous round, even the last one that is hard to get into sometimes. Join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the previous round (behind the FPSC round). This is so your next round is not worked in the post stitches (see photo tutorial). Chain 1. (60)

Round 3: SC in each stitch around. Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches – shown in photo tutorial). Change color to accent color (if using). Join, chain 2. (60)

Round 4: Puff stitch in first stitch, skip a stitch, *puff stitch in next, skip a stitch. Repeat from * around. Join to first stitch, do not chain 2. (30 puff stitches)

Round 5: Sl st in the top of the first puff stitch from the previous round, sl st in the first puff stitch space, chain 2, puff stitch in same space and in each puff stitch space around (including in the space after the last puff stitch of the previous round).  Change back to the main hat color. Join, chain 1.  (30 puff stitches)

Round 6: SC in the first stitch and in each stitch around (in the top of each puff stitch and the chain stitch between each one as well). Join, chain 1. (60)

Round 7: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure you go around each of the stitches from the previous round, even the last one that is hard to get into sometimes. Join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the previous round (behind the FPSC round). This is so your next round is not worked in the post stitches (see photo tutorial). Chain 1. (60)

Round 8: SC in each stitch around. Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches – shown in photo tutorial). Change color to accent color (if using). Join, chain 2. (60)

Round 9: Puff stitch in first stitch, skip a stitch, *puff stitch in next, skip a stitch. Repeat from * around. Join to first stitch, do not chain 2. (30 puff stitches)

Round 10: Sl st in the top of the first puff stitch from the previous round, sl st in to the first puff stitch space, chain 2, puff stitch in same space and in each puff stitch space around (including in the space after the last puff stitch of the previous round).  Change back to the main hat color. Join, chain 1. (30 puff stitches)

Round 11: SC in the first stitch and in each stitch around (in the top of each puff stitch and the chain stitch between each one as well). Join, chain 1. (60)

Round 12: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure you go around each of the stitches from the previous round, even the last one that is hard to get into sometimes. Join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the previous round (behind the FPSC round). This is so your next round is not worked in the post stitches (see photo tutorial). Chain 1. (60)

Round 13: *SC DEC, SC in next 3 stitches (working in the stitches behind the post stitches). Repeat from * around. Change to accent color. Join, chain 2. (48)

Round 14: Puff stitch in first stitch, skip a stitch, *puff stitch in next, skip a stitch. Repeat from * around. Change back to the main hat color. Join to first stitch, chain 1. (24 puff stitches)

Round 15: SC in the first stitch and in each stitch around (in the top of each puff stitch and the chain stitch between each one as well). Join, chain 2. (48)

*Optional – if you like the finished look of the FPSC round before you finish the last two decrease rounds of this pattern, feel free you add one round of FPSC stitches here (just like in other rounds) before you work rounds 16 and 17.

Round 16: *DC DEC, DC in next 2 stitches. Repeat from * around. Join, chain 1. (36)

Round 17: *SC DEC, SC in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join. (24)

Fasten off, cut yarn, weave in ends. You are now all done your Jelly Messy Bun Beanie!

TEEN/ADULT SIZE

Head circumference: 22-24”

Hat height: approx. 7.75”

Note: For teen or small adult, you may want to go down to a 4.5 mm hook to get a snugger fit.

Ribbed Band:

In main beanie color,

Row 1: Chain 10. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across. Chain 1, turn. (9)

Row 2: SC in back loops only across. Chain 1, turn. (9)

Rows 3-64: Repeat row 2.

At this point, the ribbing should measure about 16.5-17.5 inches long, without stretching it. (If you’ve already stretched it to fit around a head, it might be a little longer than the measurement here).

Fold ribbing in half and join ends with a slip stitch. Then slip stitch in each stitch across. When you get to the end, flip the ribbing so the stitches are on the inside and your loop is at the top. Chain 1 and start the instructions below for the hat body.  Your first SC stitch will be in the same stitch as the chain 1. (See photo tutorial below)

Hat body:

Round 1: SC in first stitch (same stitch as chain 1) and in each stitch around. Join with a sl st to first stitch, chain 1. (64)

*Make sure you don’t work this round into the ribbing too tightly. It’s best to keep a looser tension here so that the ribbing is able to stretch as much as needed to fit on the head of the person who is wearing it. 

Round 2: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure you go around each of the stitches from the previous round, even the last one that is hard to get into sometimes. Join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the previous round (behind the FPSC round). This is so your next round is not worked in the post stitches (see photo tutorial). Chain 1. (64)

Round 3: SC in each stitch around. Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches – shown in photo tutorial). Change color to accent color (if using). Join, chain 2. (64)

Round 4: Puff stitch in first stitch, skip a stitch, *puff stitch in next, skip a stitch. Repeat from * around. Join to first stitch, do not chain 2. (32 puff stitches)

Round 5: Sl st in the top of the first puff stitch from the previous round, sl st in the first puff stitch space, chain 2, puff stitch in same space and in each puff stitch space around (including in the space after the last puff stitch of the previous round).  Change back to the main hat color. Join, chain 1.  (32 puff stitches)

Round 6: SC in the first stitch and in each stitch around (in the top of each puff stitch and the chain stitch between each one as well). Join, chain 1. (64)

Round 7: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure you go around each of the stitches from the previous round, even the last one that is hard to get into sometimes. Join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the previous round (behind the FPSC round). This is so your next round is not worked in the post stitches (see photo tutorial). Chain 1. (64)

Round 8: SC in each stitch around. Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches – shown in photo tutorial). Change color to accent color (if using). Join, chain 2. (64)

Round 9: Puff stitch in first stitch, skip a stitch, *puff stitch in next, skip a stitch. Repeat from * around. Join to first stitch, do not chain 2. (32 puff stitches)

Round 10: Sl st in the top of the first puff stitch from the previous round, sl st in the first puff stitch space, chain 2, puff stitch in same space and in each puff stitch space around (including in the space after the last puff stitch of the previous round).  Change back to the main hat color. Join, chain 1.  (32 puff stitches)

Round 11: SC in the first stitch and in each stitch around (in the top of each puff stitch and the chain stitch between each one as well). Join, chain 1. (64)

Round 12: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure you go around each of the stitches from the previous round, even the last one that is hard to get into sometimes. Join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the previous round (behind the FPSC round). This is so your next round is not worked in the post stitches (see photo tutorial). Chain 1. (64)

Round 13: *SC DEC, SC in next 6 stitches (working in the stitches behind the post stitches). Repeat from * around. Change to accent color. Join, chain 2. (56)

Round 14: Puff stitch in first stitch, skip a stitch, *puff stitch in next, skip a stitch. Repeat from * around. Change back to the main hat color. Join to first stitch, chain 1. (28 puff stitches)

Round 15: SC in the first stitch and in each stitch around (in the top of each puff stitch and the chain stitch between each one as well). Repeat from * around. Join, chain 2. (56)

*Optional – if you like the finished look of the FPSC round before you finish the last two decrease rounds of this pattern, feel free you add one round of FPSC stitches here (just like in other rounds) before you work rounds 16 and 17.

Round 16: *DC DEC, DC in next 2. Repeat from * around. Join, chain 1. (42)

Round 17: *SC DEC, SC in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join. (28)

Fasten off, cut yarn, weave in ends. You are now all done your Jelly Messy Bun Beanie!

Photo Tutorial

In this section, you will find all of the step by step “how to” photos to help you with this pattern.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is ribbing-steps-1024x556.jpg
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is FPSC-steps-1024x881.jpg
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is FPSC-end-of-round-1024x683.jpg
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Puff-Stitch-Instructions-1024x745.jpg
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is SC-Round-Instructions-1024x614.jpg

Yay! You are all done!! I hope you love your new Jelly Beanie! Have fun making them in all different color combinations!

**Want to be kept in the loop? Be sure to like Loops and Love Crochet on Facebook and join the Loops and Love Crochet Group! Don’t forget to follow @loopsandlovecrochet on Instagram! Remember to tag Loops and Love Crochet when you post your fnished projects on social media! I’d love to see them! **

*You may make and sell any items made from my patterns, but please link back to my blog or Loops & Love Crochet as the designer. Please do not copy this pattern or photos and share as your own, in part or in whole.  Instead, link back to the Loops and Love Crochet blog (especially when selling items you make from my patterns). Thank you!

You may also like...

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *