Mini Bears in Stockings – Free Crochet Pattern

It’s the fourth and final week of our Christmas in July event and I’ve been so excited to release these Mini Bears in Stockings on the blog! If this is your first time hearing about our Christmas in July event, you can read more about it and get links to the other three patterns released right HERE. During this month, Stephanie from Grace and Yarn has released her adorable Penguin Ornaments and a sweet Polar Bear in a sweater, and I have released my Mini Angel Amigurumi and now these Mini Bears!

These Mini Bears are all snuggled up in their own little stockings! They are only about 5 inches tall, making them the perfect size to work up quickly with only a little bit of yarn, plus they make great ornaments, stocking stuffers, and gifts! I know little ones will especially love holding the tiny bears and putting them in and out of their little stockings. Make the boy version with the hat, or the girl version with the bow, or both because they are just such a sweet pair!

Remember to like Loops and Love Crochet on Facebook and join the Loops and Love Crochet Group! I’d also LOVE it if you followed @loopsandlovecrochet on Instagram!

If you like crochet video tutorials, check out (and subscribe to) my Loops and Love Crochet YouTube Channel!

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. This is done at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting Loops & Love Crochet!

The Mini Bears in Stockings crochet pattern is available for FREE on this website. If you’d like an ad-free, printable PDF version, you may purchase it for a small fee from my Etsy or Ravelry shops. Thank you so much for supporting Loops & Love Crochet!

Materials:
  • Worsted weight yarn – You can use any worsted-weight yarn for this project. I used a mixture of Caron Simply Soft and Red Heart Soft yarn. You’ll need red, green, and white yarn, plus a main bear color and an accent color for the nose/snout.  I used Bone and Off White for one bear, and then Toast and Bone for the other bear.
  • 3.25 mm crochet hook (If you crochet loosely, you might want to go down to a 3mm hook so your stitches are tight together).
  • Safety eyes – I used 8mm size (or you can embroider on your own eyes as an alternative)
  • Safety nose – I used 11mm size. (or you can stitch it on with your yarn needle as an option too)
  • Black embroidery thread for the eyelashes (optional)
  • Stuffing – any fiber-based stuffing (such as PolyFil or Fiberfill).
  • Yarn needle for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends. Bent yarn needles work the best for sewing amigurumi pieces together.
Stitches Used:
  • Ch – chain
  • Sl St – slip stitch
  • SC – single crochet
  • HDC – half double crochet
  • DC – double crochet
  • INV DEC – invisible single crochet decrease – insert hook into front loop of next stitch, then insert your hook into the front loop of the following stitch (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 remaining loops on hook.  There are many video tutorials of the invisible decrease on YouTube, if needed.
Important Notes:
  • Magic Circle – Make a circle with your yarn, insert crochet hook into circle and draw up a loop. Chain one and then start making the stitches of round 1 into the ring. If you are unsure of how to make a magic circle, check out my Magic Circle Video Tutorial.
  • Continuous Rounds – Most of this pattern is worked up in continuous rounds, which means that you will not be joining the last stitch of the round with the first one. Instead you’ll need to keep track of where each round started and how many stitches you have made because after each round you’ll continue right on to the stitches of the next round (with no join).  It is useful to use a stitch marker (or a piece of yarn) to mark the start or end of each round.
  • Joining Rounds – A few parts of this pattern are worked in joining rounds, which means that you will be joining the last stitch of the round to the first one with a slip stitch and than chaining 1 (or 2) before continuing with the next round. Make the first stitch of the next round in the same stitch as the chain 1. Chain stitches do not count towards stitch count.
  • Color Changes – When working color changes, I like to use this method: Work the last stitch of the round as you would normally right up until the last yarn over. Then yarn over in the new color and complete the stitch. If you are working in joined rounds, next you will slip stitch into the top of the first stitch of the round. If you are working in continuous rounds without joining, you will continue with the stitches of the next round in the new color. Make sure you work over the yarn tails for a few stitches so they are secure. You can also weave them in later.
  • Color Changes (when working in continuous rounds)  – When working in continuous rounds (without joining), the color changes might be more visible.  When you attach the arms to the body, try to line up the color change towards the back of the body or on the inside of the arm where the where it touches the body so the color change is in a less visible place.

The Pattern

For this pattern, the legs, body and head will be worked up in one piece. First, we will start with working up the nose/snout so that it is ready to sew onto the head while the legs, body, and head are worked up in one piece.

NOSE/SNOUT

Round 1: In bear accent color, magic circle, chain 1, make 6 SC into ring (6)

*Do not pull center of ring all the way tight yet.

Round 2: 2 SC in first 2 stitches, SC in next stitch, 2 SC in next 2 stitches, SC in last stitch (10)

Round 3: SC in each stitch around (10)

Fasten off with a slip stitch in the next stitch leaving a tail to sew onto head. If you are using a safety nose, insert it into the middle of the circle, pull the circle tight, and then secure the back of the nose. If you are stitching on the nose, pull the circle tight, weave in the end, and then stitch on the nose. Or you can also stitch on the nose after you attach the snout to the face.

Put the nose/snout aside for now. We will attach it to the head at the same time as the eyes.

Legs (make 2)

*Stuff the legs as you go. Make sure that you firmly stuff the legs and body sections, but not so firmly that you can see the stuffing through the stitches.

Round 1: In main bear color, magic circle, chain 1, make 6 SC into ring (6)

Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)

Rounds 3-4: SC in each stitch around (12)

Round 5:  INV DEC, SC next two stitches, repeat around (9)

Rounds 6-8: SC in each stitch around (9)

Fasten off on one leg and cut yarn (leaving a tail). Follow the instructions above to make the second leg. When you finish working up the second leg, do not fasten off. Stuff the legs about ¾ of the way up (leaving space at the top of the leg so that when you start working the body, the stuffing isn’t getting caught in your stitches). Move to round 1 of the body and the joining the legs instructions below.

BODY

Round 1: Joining the legs: On the second leg, chain 2, and then join the legs with a SC in the next stitch on the first leg (after where you fastened off). Continue to SC in each stitch around the first leg. When you are around to the chain stitches, SC in each of the 2 chains and then continue to SC in each of the stitches on the second leg. Lastly, SC in each of the 2 chain stitches again (this will be on the other side of the chain). You’ll have made a total of 22 SC stitches this round. This is the end of round 1 of the body and you will start round 2 from here (use a stitch marker to keep track of where your rounds start and end, if needed).  See the photo below from a different pattern if you need help with joining the legs or check out the video tutorial link below!

Note – When joining the legs, if you are having trouble working the SC stitches into both sides of the chain 2, I find it helpful to keep my chain flat and insert my hook into each of the chain stitches from the bottom of the chain. This helps make sure that I am crocheting in one side of the chain in the first part of the round, and then crocheting in the other side of the chain in the last part of the round, without twisting the chain.

I made a quick video tutorial to help you with the steps below for joining legs in amigurumi projects. The only difference in the video is that there are no chain stitches between the legs, otherwise the steps will be the same.  You can find the video tutorial below, or by clicking here. (I’d love it if you subscribed to my channel while you’re there too!)

Round 2: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 10 stitches, 2 SC in next stitch, SC in last 10 stitches (24)

Rounds 3-6: SC in each stitch around (24)

Round 7: INV DEC, SC in next 4 stitches, repeat around. (20)

Rounds 8-9: SC in each stitch around. (20)

Round 10: INV DEC, SC in next 2 stitches, repeat around. (15)

Round 11: INV DEC, SC in next 3 stitches, repeat around. (12)

Round 12: SC in each stitch around (12)

*Reminder to continue stuffing the body as you go, making sure you add enough stuffing to the legs/body and them move onto the head instructions below.  

HEAD

*Continue stuffing the neck area and head as you go. To get enough stuffing in the neck area, I sometimes find it helpful to use a chopstick or pen to gently push a little bit of stuffing from the head area into the neck area. This will help prevent head wobbling.

Round 1: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (18)

Round 2: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 2, repeat around (24)

Round 3: 2 SC in first, SC in next 3, repeat around (30)

Rounds 4-9: SC in each stitch around (30)

*Insert safety eyes between rounds 7 and 8, about 6 stitches apart in the middle of the face. If you are adding eyelashes, first place the safety eyes where you would like them, but do not secure the back. Take the safety eyes out and use your yarn needle to stitch on the eyelashes first. Then place the safety eyes back in and secure the backs.

Round 10: INV DEC, SC in next 3, repeat around (24)

Round 11: INV DEC, SC in next 2, repeat around (18)

Round 12: INV DEC, SC in next stitch, repeat around (12)

*Make sure the head is well-stuffed before the opening gets too small.

Round 13: INV DEC around (6)

Fasten off. Weave in ends and cut yarn.

ARMS (make 2)

Round 1: In main bear color, magic circle, chain 1, make 6 SC into ring (6)

Round 2: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (9)

Rounds 3-4: SC in each stitch around (9)

Round 5: INV DEC, SC next stitch, repeat around (6)

Rounds 6-7: SC in each stitch around (6)

Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew on to the bear. Use your yarn needle to sew the top of each arm closed. Attach the arms on the sides of the body lining up with the 2nd round from the top of the body.

EARS (make 2)

Round 1: In main bear color, magic circle, chain 1, make 6 SC into ring (6)

Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)

Rounds 3-4: SC in each stitch around (12)

Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew onto the bear. Line up the ears starting in the 2nd round from the top of the head. If you are planning to put the little hat between the ears, be sure to leave enough space when you sew on the ears.

SCARF

In red or green yarn, chain 29, SC in 2nd chain from hook and across.

Fasten off. Weave in one of the ends and use the other one to sew the scarf on the bear. Wrap the scarf around the bear’s neck right above the arms. You can choose where you want the scarf to overlap. Use your yarn needle to make a few stitches attaching the scarf to the bear, as well as attaching the scarf layers together where the overlap is.

HAT

Round 1: In red yarn, magic circle, chain 1, make 6 SC into ring (6)

Round 2: SC in each stitch around (6)

Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (9)

Round 4: SC in each stitch around (9)

Round 5: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next two stitches, repeat around (12)

Change color to white

Round 6: SC in each stitch around.

Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew hat on the bear’s head. Next, make the pom pom and sew to the top of the hat.

POM POM (for top of hat)

Round 1: In white yarn, magic circle, chain 1, make 6 SC into ring (6)

Round 2: SC in each stitch around (6)

Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew pom pom closed and sew onto hap. Using your yarn needle, pass your yarn needle through the front loop of all 6 stitches. Pull the tail tight to close the pom pom. Weave in one of the ends and use the other one to sew the pom pom on top of the hat.

Place the hat on the head between the ears. Sew in and out of the stitches along the bottom of the hat, passing through a stitch on the head each time. Repeat until hat is secure.

BOW

To make the bow, follow the instructions below. I also have a photo and video tutorial on my blog for making the bows, you can find it HERE: Note that the only difference is that the bow on my blog starts with a chain 3 and treble crochet stitches whereas the one in this pattern is made using the same technique with only a chain 2 and two double crochet stitches on each side instead of 3 treble crochet stitches (to make a smaller bow for this little gal!)

Bow Instructions: Magic circle, chain 2. Work 2 double crochet stitches into the ring, chain 2 and make a slip stitch to the center of the ring. Chain 2 again, make 2 double crochet stitches into the ring again, chain 2, slip stitch to center ring again. Pull the magic circle tight. Wrap the yarn ends around the middle of the bow a few times. I wrapped one of the yarn tails around one way and then went the opposite way with the other yarn tail. Use your yarn tails to make a knot at the back of the bow. Weave one of the yarn tails in and cut yarn. Use the other yarn tail to sew the bow onto the bear’s head.

Now that the bears are all finished, all that is left are the cute little stockings to put the bears in! You are almost there!

STOCKING

*Working the stocking might get a little bit tricky, especially for the section forming the heel. Check out the photo tutorial at the end of the stocking pattern and/or the video tutorial on this page or here on my YouTube channel! 

Round 1: In red or green yarn, magic circle, chain 2, make 8 HDC into ring, join, ch 2 (8)

Round 2: 2HDC in each stitch around, join, ch 2  (16)

Round 3: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 3 stitches, repeat around, join, ch 2  (20)

Round 4: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 4 stitches, repeat around, join, ch 2  (24)

Rounds 5-6: HDC in each stitch around, join, ch 2 (24)

We have now finished the toe section of the stocking. We will be switching to turned rows to work the heel section. At the end of rows 8-11, you will be working stitches into the last round on the toe section (round 4). I’ll refer to this as the “main round.” Please watch the video tutorial for the stocking. I made it so you can follow along with it to make the mini stocking.

Row 7: HDC in first 4 stitches, chain 2, turn (4)

Row 8: HDC in each of 4 stitches across, then HDC DEC joining the next 2 stitches in the main round below, chain 2, turn (5)

Row 9: HDC in each of the 5 stitches across, then HDC in the ends of the previous 2 rows, then work one HDC DEC joining the next 2 stitches from the main round below, chain 2, turn (8)

Row 10: HDC in each of the 8 stitches across, HDC in the ends of the previous 3 rows, then work one HDC DEC joining the next 2 stitches from the main round below, chain 2, turn (12)

*Now we are switching back to working in joined rounds.

Round 11: HDC in first 12 stitches, join to the next stitch in the main round below with a slip stitch, then ch 2 and HDC DEC joining the same stitch and the next one together, HDC in next 10 stitches, HDC DEC, join to the top of the first stitch of the round, chain 2 (24)

Rounds 12-15: HDC in each stitch around, join, chain 2 (24)

*After round 15, change color to white before joining. I like to work my color change in the last step of the last stitch of the round. Then use the new color to join with a slip stitch and chain 2.

Round 16: DC in each stitch around, join, chain 2. (24)

Round 17:  FPDC around first DC from previous round, BPDC around next. Alternate FPDC and BPDC in each stitch around. Join with a Sl St to first stitch. (24)

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Place the little bear into the stocking! You are all finished! I hope you loved making these Mini Bears in Stockings!

** If you plan to hang the stocking as an ornament or decoration, you can use some yarn to attach a loop to the back of the stocking. First, cut a piece of yarn 3-4 inches long. Using your yarn needle, run the yarn through one of the stitches on the back of the stocking. Then tie both ends of the yarn together in a knot. You can then slide the loop around, so the knot is at the bottom. If you prefer to have a chain loop to hang the stocking ornament, you can slip stitch your yarn into one of the stitches in the middle of the back of the stocking. Then chain your desired length, and then slip stitch into the stitch beside where you started. Fasten off and sew in both yarn tails.

Stocking Photo Tutorial


**Want to be kept in the loop? Be sure to like Loops and Love Crochet on Facebook and join the Loops and Love Crochet Group! Don’t forget to follow @loopsandlovecrochet on Instagram! Remember to tag Loops and Love Crochet when you post your finished projects on social media! I’d love to see them! **

*You may make and sell any items made from my patterns, but please link back to my blog or Loops & Love Crochet as the designer. Please do not copy this pattern or photos and share as your own, in part or in whole.  Instead, link back to the Loops and Love Crochet blog (especially when selling items you make from my patterns). Thank you!

You may also like...

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *