Mini Angel Amigurumi – Free Crochet Pattern

It’s week 2 of our Christmas in July event and I’m so excited to release this Mini Angel Amigurumi pattern on the blog today! You can read more about our Christmas in July event HERE, but if this is the first time you are hearing about it, Stephanie from Grace and Yarn and I have teamed up to bring you four fun projects this month – one released each week! Last week, Stephanie released her adorable Penguin Ornaments, and this week, it’s my turn to release my mini angel pattern.

This Mini Angel Amigurumi is a much smaller version of my original Angelica the Angel Amigurumi crochet pattern on the blog. She is only about 4.5 inches tall, making her the perfect size for a holiday ornament, stocking-stuffer, or gift for someone special.

For this mini amigurumi, the body and head are worked up as one piece and the arms and other features are sewn on at the end.  When made in white and silver, she makes a beautiful angel, but if you change the colors and leave off the halo and/or wings, she also makes a really sweet mini fairy or princess! This little angel even includes instructions for two different hair styles!

Remember to like Loops and Love Crochet on Facebook and join the Loops and Love Crochet Group! I’d also LOVE it if you followed @loopsandlovecrochet on Instagram!

If you like crochet video tutorials, check out (and subscribe to) my Loops and Love Crochet YouTube Channel!

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. This is done at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting Loops & Love Crochet!

The Mini Angel Amigurumi pattern is available for FREE on this website. If you’d like an ad-free, printable PDF version, you may purchase it for a small fee from my Etsy or Ravelry shops. Thank you so much for supporting Loops & Love Crochet!

Materials:

  • Worsted weight yarn – You can use any worsted-weight yarn for this project. I used Caron Simply Soft yarn in Bone, White, Platinum Sparkle, and Red Heart Soft in Toast for the hair. You can also find this yarn online at Yarnspirations!
  • 3.25 mm crochet hook (If you crochet loosely, you might want to go down to a 3mm hook so your stitches are tight together).
  • Safety eyes – I used 6mm size
  • Black embroidery thread for the eyelashes (optional)
  • A small amount of pink or red yarn or thread for the mouth. If you like a thinner mouth, you can separate a strand off a piece of worsted-weight yarn.
  • Stuffing – any fiber-based stuffing (such as PolyFil or Fiberfill).
  • Yarn needle for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends. Bent yarn needles work the best for sewing amigurumi pieces together.

Stitches Used:

  • Ch – chain
  • Sl St – slip stitch
  • SC – single crochet
  • HDC – half double crochet
  • DC – double crochet
  • INV DEC – invisible single crochet decrease – insert hook into front loop of next stitch, then insert your hook into the front loop of the following stitch (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 remaining loops on hook.  There are many video tutorials of the invisible decrease on YouTube, if needed.

Important Notes:

  • Magic Circle – Make a circle with your yarn, insert crochet hook into circle and draw up a loop. Chain one and then start making the stitches of round 1 into the ring. If you are unsure of how to make a magic circle, check out my Magic Circle Video Tutorial on YouTube.
  • Continuous Rounds – Most of this pattern is worked up in continuous rounds, which means that you will not be joining the last stitch of the round with the first one. Instead you’ll need to keep track of where each round started and how many stitches you have made because after each round you’ll continue right on to the stitches of the next round (with no join).  It is useful to use a stitch marker (or a piece of yarn) to mark the start or end of each round.
  • Joining Rounds – A few parts of this pattern are worked in joining rounds, which means that you will be joining the last stitch of the round to the first one with a slip stitch and than chaining 1 (or 2) before continuing with the next round. Make the first stitch of the next round in the same stitch as the chain 1. Chain stitches do not count towards stitch count.
  • Color Changes – When working color changes, I like to use this method: Work the last stitch of the round as you would normally right up until the last yarn over. Then yarn over in the new color and complete the stitch. If you are working in joined rounds, next you will slip stitch into the top of the first stitch of the round. If you are working in continuous rounds without joining, you will continue with the stitches of the next round in the new color. Make sure you work over the yarn tails for a few stitches so they are secure. You can also weave them in later.
  • Color Changes (when working in continuous rounds)  – When working in continuous rounds (without joining), the color changes might be more visible.  When you attach the arms to the body, try to line up the color change towards the back of the body or on the inside of the arm where the where it touches the body so the color change is in a less visible place.

The Pattern

Body and Head

The body and head will be worked up in one piece. Add stuffing as you go. Remember to stuff firmly, but not so firm that you can see the stuffing through the stitches. Make sure the top of the body is well stuffed before moving on to the head.  This will help keep the head from wobbling.

Round 1: In white, magic circle, chain 1, make 6 SC into ring (6)

Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (18)

Round 4: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 2, repeat around (24)

Round 5: 2 SC in first, SC in next 3, repeat around (30)

Rounds 6-11: SC in each stitch around (30)

Round 12: INV DEC, SC in next 3, repeat around (24) 

Round 13: Work this round in back loops only. SC in each stitch around. (24)

Round 14: SC in each stitch around (24)

Round 15: INV DEC, SC in next 2, repeat around (18)

Round 16: SC in each stitch around (18)

Round 17: INV DEC, SC in next stitch, repeat around (12)

Round 18: INV DEC, SC in next two stitches, repeat around (9)

Change to skin color.

Now you will start working up the head section. I find it helpful to work a few rounds of the head and then pause working on the head to complete the skirt section, and then come back to finishing the head. This is because it is easier to get your hook in there to work up the skirt without the head in the way.

The round numbers have been restarted for the head section below.

Round 1: SC in each stitch (9)

Round 2: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 2, repeat around (12)

*Pause working on the head and jump down to the skirt instructions. Then pop back up here and finish working the head.

Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (18)

Round 4: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 2, repeat around (24)

Rounds 5-10: SC in each stitch around (24)

*Insert safety eyes between rounds 8 and 9, about 4 stitches apart in the middle of the face. Choose the front of your angel by keeping the color change from where you changed from white to skin color in the middle of the back of the body. If you are adding eyelashes, first place the safety eyes where you would like them, but do not secure the back. Take the safety eyes out and use your yarn needle to stitch on the eyelashes first. Then place the safety eyes back in and secure the backs. Use the image below from another one of my patterns to see how to sew on the eyelashes. You can also stitch on the mouth at this point too.

Round 11: INV DEC, SC in next 2, repeat around (18)

Round 12: INV DEC, SC in next stitch, repeat around (12)

Round 13: INV DEC around (6)

Fasten off. Weave in ends and cut yarn.

Skirt Instructions

The skirt is worked in joining rounds, not continuous rounds. This means you will join the last stitch to the first with a slip stitch, chain 2 and then continue with the next round.

Round 1: Make a slip knot with white yarn (I used white or white sparkle yarn). With head end of the body facing towards you, join the slip knot through one of the front loop stitches of round 13 (you will be able to see the front loops because they are where you made the round of back loop stitches). Chain 2, DC in same stitch and in each stitch around. Join to top of first DC with a Sl St. Chain 2. (24)

Round 2: 2 DC in first stitch, DC in next stitch. Repeat around. Join, ch 2. (36)

Rounds 3-4: DC in each stitch around. Join, ch 2 (36)

Round 5: *3 DC in first stitch, slip stich in next two stitches *Repeat from *around. Join to first slip stitch of the round.

Fasten off, weave in ends. Jump back up to where you left off on the head and continue following the head/body instructions.

Arms (make 2)

Round 1: In skin color, magic circle, chain 1, make 4 SC into ring (4)

Round 2: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (6)

Change color to white

Rounds 3-7: SC in each stitch around (6)

Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew on to the angel. Use your yarn needle to sew the top of each arm closed. Attach the arms on the sides of the body right below the last round of white. Sew in and out of each stitch at the top of the arms. Weave in ends.

*Note – if you are having trouble with the small size of the magic circle and flipping the arms so they are the right way out, I find it helpful to use the back end of my crochet hook to help shape the hands/arms. When you work a couple rounds of the hand area, press the back of your crochet hook in the inside center of the magic circle and use your fingers to shape the stitches around the hook. This helps flip the piece so that you are working with the right side out.  

Hair Instructions

There are instructions for two hair styles included below. Or you can create your own angel hair style.

Hair-down – bob style

To create this hair style, you will start by forming a wig cap in the round, and then you will switch to crocheting in rows to create the bob style.

Round 1: In hair color, magic circle, chain 1, make 6 SC into ring (6)

*You can leave the tail from the magic circle long to use it to sew the hair on the angel’s head.

Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (18)

Round 4: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 2, repeat around.  (24)

Round 5: HDC in first 4 stitches, DC in next stitch, 2 DC in next, DC in next, HDC in next 17 stitches.  Chain 2, turn. (you will no longer be working in rounds but working in rows instead). (25)

Row 6: HDC in first 13 stitches, ch 2, turn. (13)

Row 7: HDC in each of the 13 stitches, ch 2 turn. (13)

Row 8: HDC in each of the 13 stitches, ch 2 turn. (13)

Row 9: HDC in each of the 13 stitches (13)

Fasten off. Leave the center yarn tail for sewing the hair on the head, or you can attach a new piece of yarn for sewing it on after.

Line up the hair on the angel’s head. Make sure you center the “bangs” section. The 2DC in round 5 should line up in the middle of the forehead. Use your yarn needle and the yarn tail from the magic circle to sew the hair cap on the head. I attached the hair by passing my yarn needle in and out of the stitches of round 5, also passing in and out of the head each time. I did not sew through every stitch, but every second or third stitch. Then I added a few stitches towards the top. Check to make sure the hair is secure on top before weaving in your yarn tail and cutting the yarn.

Next, make a chain of your chosen length to create a circular halo on the angel’s head. My chain was 20 stitches long, but yours may be a few stitches longer or shorter depending on tension. Form a circle by joining the last stitch to the first one with a slip stitch. Fasten off. Use the yarn tail and yarn needle to sew the halo on top of the angel’s head.  I just attached it with a stitch in the back and one on each side. I did not add one in the front as it was more noticeable right on the front.

Hair up – bun style

To create this hair style, you will start by crocheting in the round to create a wig cap. Then you will work up the bun section and sew it to the wig cap on the angel’s head.  

Wig Cap

Round 1: In hair color, magic circle, chain 1, make 6 SC into ring (6)

Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (18)

Round 4: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 2, repeat around.  (24)

Round 5: HDC in first 4 stitches, DC in next stitch, 2 DC in next, DC in next, HDC in next 17 stitches.  Chain 2, turn. (you will no longer be working in rounds but working in rows instead). (25)

Fasten off, leave a tail to sew the wig cap to the head.

Bun

Round 1: In hair color, magic circle, chain 1, make 6 SC into ring (6)

Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)

Rounds 3-4: SC in each stitch around (12)

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing on to the angel’s head.

Line up the wig cap on the angel’s head. Make sure you center the “bangs” section. The 2DC in round 5 should line up in the middle of the forehead. Use your yarn needle and one of the yarn tails to sew the wig cap on the head. I attached the wig cap by passing my yarn needle in and out of the stitches around the edge of the wig cap, passing in and out of a stitch on the head each time. I did not sew through every stitch, but every second stitch. Then I added a few stitches towards the top. Check to make sure the wig cap is secure on the head (add more stitches as needed). Then weave in your yarn tail and cut the yarn.

Next, to attach the bun part, start by adding a bit of stuffing to the inside of the bun to help it hold its shape. Then position the bun where you like it on top of the wig cap on the angel’s head. Use your yarn needle to sew around the stitches along the edge of the bun, attaching it to the wig cap. When the bun is secure, weave in ends and cut yarn. 

Lastly, create a chain long enough to go around the seam at the bottom of the bun (my chain was about 16 stitches long, but they will vary in length). Use your yarn needle to sew the chain around the bottom of the bun, hiding the seam where the bun was sewn on. I joined the chain at the back of the bun, forming a circle, and then just added a couple of stitches to secure the chain in place. You will not need to sew around every stitch.

Belt

Make a chain long enough to fit around the middle of the angel. Fasten off and use your yarn needle to sew it on right above the ridge where the skirt is attached. I started at the back and then just added a couple stitches at the sides and front to keep the belt in place.

Wings (make 4)

To make the wings, you will need to make 4 wing pieces. Then you will crochet two of them together to make a wing and then repeat for the other wing.

Row 1: In grey/silver yarn, chain 11, SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each stitch across, ch 1, turn (10)

Row 2: SC in first 7 stitches, ch 1, turn (7)

Row 3: SC in each stitch across, ch 1, turn (7)

Row 4: SC in first 4 stitches, ch 1, turn (4)

Row 5: SC in each stitch across, ch 1, turn (4)

Fasten off, weave in all yarn tails. Make a total of 4 wing pieces and then follow the steps below to crochet them together to form 2 wings.

Crocheting the Wings Together

Step 1: Start by taking two wings and placing them one on top of the other with the bumpy side on the left. (This will be the left wing)

Step 2: Make a slip stitch with your yarn. Insert your hook into the corner stitch in the top right of the wing, making sure to pass through both wing layers. Pull up your slip stich, chain 1 and make a SC in that corner stitch. Next, use the diagram below. Working to the left across the top, make one SC in each stitch around the wing, except for the stitches marked in the diagram showing 2 SC will be worked into those stitches. When you get back around to where you started, make one last SC in the same corner stitch where you started. Then join with a slip stitch to the first stitch. Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew onto your angel. You have now completed the left wing.

Now you will repeat the steps above, but for the right wing. To work the right wing, you will be crocheting around the opposite way than you were for the left wing.

Step 1: Lay two wings on top of each other, but with the bumpy side on the right. (This will be the right wing)

Step 2: Make a slip stitch with your yarn. Insert your hook into the corner stitch in the top left of the wing, making sure to pass through both wing layers. Pull up your slip stich, chain 1 and make a SC in that corner stitch. Next, use the diagram below. Working down the left side of the wing, make one SC in each stitch around the wing, except for the stitches marked in the diagram showing 2 SC will be worked into those stitches. When you get back around to where you started, make one last SC in the same corner stitch where you started. Then join with a slip stitch to the first stitch. Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew onto your angel. You have now completed the right wing.

When you have finished both wings, they should look like this:

Next, you will sew them to the back of your angel. Use your yarn needle and the yarn tail left from crocheting around the wings. You can choose which side of the wing you want to be the front/back.

Now you are all finished! I hope you love your new Mini Angel Amigurumi!

**Want to be kept in the loop? Be sure to like Loops and Love Crochet on Facebook and join the Loops and Love Crochet Group! Don’t forget to follow @loopsandlovecrochet on Instagram! Remember to tag Loops and Love Crochet when you post your finished projects on social media! I’d love to see them! **

*You may make and sell any items made from my patterns, but please link back to my blog or Loops & Love Crochet as the designer. Please do not copy this pattern or photos and share as your own, in part or in whole.  Instead, link back to the Loops and Love Crochet blog (especially when selling items you make from my patterns). Thank you!

You may also like...

1 Comment

  1. Yolanda says:

    Muchas gracias por compartir sus tutoriales

Comments are closed.