Criss Cross Ridges Infinity Scarf

The Criss Cross Ridges Infinity Scarf has so much fun texture and works up nice and quickly! It’s so soft and squishy, while also being a nice weight for milder temperatures between seasons. This infinity scarf is long enough to wrap twice. It comes out to approximately 60 inches in length.  This scarf looks super fun in this self-striping rainbow effect yarn, but would also look beautiful made with one solid color of yarn. I had fun playing with this Lion Brand Mandala Tweed yarn for this scarf.  

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Materials:

  • Worsted weight yarn – You can use any worsted-weight yarn for this project. I had fun using a cake of Lion Brand Mandala Tweed yarn in the Seven colorway. One cake has 568yd/520m of yarn and I used about two thirds of it. While this is a worsted weight yarn, I found that it runs a little on the “thicker” end of the worsted weight spectrum. If you are substituting other yarn, try to pick one that is comparable. If you go with a “lighter” worsted-weight, you may need to change hook size or start with a longer chain/foundation to ensure you scarf will be long enough.
  • 5.5 mm crochet hook. I always use (and love) my Clover Amour hooks!
  • Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)

Stitches Used:

  • Ch – chain
  • Sl St – slip stitch
  • DC – double crochet
  • FPSC – front post single crochet
  • FPDC – front post double crochet
  • BPDC – back post double crochet
  • FDC – foundation double crochet

Gauge

  • Gauge is not that important for this project, however, you can note that 2 inches in length is approximately ~7 DC stitches.

Finished Size

  • When finished, this infinity scarf is approximately 60 inches long and 6 inches wide. See the important notes section below for details on changing the size of your scarf.

Important Notes:

  • The Criss Cross Ridges Infinity Scarf begins with foundation double crochet stitches. I have a tutorial on my YouTube channel if you’d like to learn how to make these stitches. You can find the link at the bottom of the Important Notes section. I find foundation double crochet stitches leave a nicer finished edge and are easier to keep the first row from twisting when you join it. However, as an alternative, you can easily begin with a starting chain.
  • The starting chain or foundation might seem quite long at first, but when you work the first couple of rounds, you’ll notice it shrinks up a bit.  It’ll still have some stretch in it when it’s done though!
  • Always start the first stitch of the row/round in the same stitch as the chain 1.
  • Chain stitches at the start of each round do not count towards stitch count.
  • After the starting chain/foundation, this pattern is worked in joining rounds. When you finish the stitches of one round, join to the first stitch of the round with a slip stitch, and then chain 1 (or 2). Start the next round of the pattern, starting in same stitch as chain.
  • To change the length of this scarf, you can alter the length of your starting chain or foundation. Be sure that your stitch count for the starting chain or foundation is an EVEN number of stitches in order for the criss cross stitches work out correctly. You can also change the width of the scarf by changing the number of times you repeat the stitch pattern.
  • I have a photo tutorial section at the end of the pattern to help with the instructions and stitches. I hope you find these photos helpful!
  • Here are a couple of video tutorials on my YouTube channel that might be helpful while working this pattern.

Criss Cross Ridges Infinity Scarf – The Pattern

Row/Round 1: FDC 190. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the first FDC stitch. Make sure you keep the “right side” (front side) of the work facing out. Chain 2.  (190)

*There will be a gap at the bottom where the band is not connected (see photo tutorial). You can use your yarn needle to sew it together now, or leave it until the end.

*If you prefer to start with a chain rather than the foundation stitches, the instructions are:

Chain 192, DC in 3rd stitch from hook and in each stitch across. Join to top of first DC with a slip stitch. Chain 2. Continue to round 2 below. (190)

Round 2: FPDC around first stitch (around first DC from previous round, not the chain), BPDC around next stitch. Continue alternating FPDC and BPDC around. Join to top of first FPDC stitch, chain 2. (190)

Round 3: Alternate FPDC and BPDC stitches around. Be sure you are matching your FPDC and BPDC stitches from the previous round.  Work a FPDC around each FPDC from the previous round and a BPDC around each BPDC of the previous round. Join to top of first FPDC stitch, chain 1. (190)

Round 4: SC in each stitch around. Join, chain 1.  (190)

Round 5: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure you go around each of the stitches from the previous round, even the last one that can be hard to get into sometimes. Join with a slip stitch to first FPSC. Then slip stitch back to the first SC of the previous round (this is the stitch right behind the first slip stitch. It will be right beside your join from the previous round and is sometimes a bit tricky to get in to). See photo tutorial. This is so your next round is not worked in the post stitches. Chain 1. (190)

Round 6: SC in each stitch around. Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches). Join, chain 2. (190)

Round 7: Work criss-cross DC stitches around: Skip first stitch, DC in second stitch. Go back and DC in skipped stitch (see photo tutorial below). Continue around. Join, chain 1.  (190)

Round 8: SC in each stitch around. Join, chain 1.  (190)

Round 9: FPSC in each stitch around. Join with a slip stitch to first FPSC. Then slip stitch back to the first SC of the previous round. Chain 1. (190)

Round 10: SC in each stitch around. Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches). Join, chain 2.

Round 11: Work criss-cross DC stitches around (skip first stitch, DC in second stitch, go back and DC in skipped stitch, repeat around). See photo tutorial below. Join, chain 1.  (190)

Round 12: SC in each stitch around. Join, chain 1.  (190)

Round 13: FPSC in each stitch around. Join with a slip stitch to first FPSC. Then slip stitch back to the first SC of the previous round. Chain 1. (190)

Round 14: SC in each stitch around. Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches). Join, chain 2.

Round 15: Work criss-cross DC stitches around (skip first stitch, DC in second stitch, go back and DC in skipped stitch, repeat around). See photo tutorial below. Join, chain 1.  (190)

Round 16: SC in each stitch around. Join, chain 1.  (190)

Round 17: FPSC in each stitch around. Join with a slip stitch to first FPSC. Then slip stitch back to the first SC of the previous round. Chain 2. (190)

Round 18: DC in each stitch around. Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your DC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches). Join, chain 2. (190)

Round 19: FPDC around first stitch, BPDC around next stitch. Continue alternating FPDC and BPDC around. Join to top of first FPDC stitch. Chain 2. (190)

Round 20: Alternate FPDC and BPDC stitches around. Be sure you are matching your FPDC and BPDC stitches from the previous round.  Work a FPDC around each FPDC from the previous round and a BPDC around each BPDC of the previous round. Join to top of first FPDC stitch (190)

Fasten off. Weave in ends and cut yarn. If you did not sew together the bottom of the infinity scarf where you joined your foundation or starting chain, you can do that now too, weave in those ends, and cut your yarn.

That’s it! You’re all done your Criss Cross Stitch Infinity Scarf!! I hope you love it!

*NOTE – Because the stitch texture and detail is on the one side of this scarf, I found that if you are going to wrap the scarf twice, the beautiful texture and stitches show up nicely if you start by putting the scarf on with the textured side on the inside (facing you) so that when you wrap it, the texture and fun stitches are visible on the outside.

Photo Tutorial

*You may make and sell any items made from my patterns, but please link back to my blog or Loops & Love Crochet as the designer. Please do not copy this pattern or photos and share as your own, in part or in whole.  Instead, link back to the Loops and Love Crochet blog (especially when selling items you make from my patterns). Thank you!

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