Angel Amigurumi – Free Crochet Pattern

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Meet Angelica, the angel amigurumi! She is the perfect project for your winter or holiday crocheting.  Measuring 12 inches tall from head to feet, Angelica is great for cuddling, decorating, or gift giving! For this amigurumi, the legs are sewn on separately so she can sit independently, but she can also stand if leaned against something. When made in white and silver, Angelica makes a beautiful angel, but if you change the colors and leave off the halo, she’d also make a really cute fairy!  

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Angelica the Angel Amigurumi is one of the featured patterns in the 30 Days of Cozy event hosted by Made with a Twist. If you are looking for an amazing deal for some fantastic crochet patterns, you can purchase the 30 Days of Cozy Bundle. You’ll get 30+ beautiful designs, all for only $24! But make sure you hurry because the 30 Days of Cozy Bundle is only available until December 31, 2019!

If you’d like an ad-free, printable PDF version of this Angel Amigurumi pattern, you may purchase it for a small fee from my Etsy or Ravelry shops. Thank you so much for supporting Loops & Love Crochet!

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Materials:

  • Worsted weight yarn – You can use any worsted-weight yarn for this project. I used Caron Simply Soft yarn in Bone, White, Snow Sparkle, Platinum Sparkle, and Red Heart Soft in Toast for the hair.
  • 4 mm crochet hook (I crochet quite tightly. If you crochet on the looser side, you may want to go down to a 3.5mm or 3.75mm hook)
  • Safety eyes – I used 9mm size
  • Black embroidery thread for the eyelashes (optional)
  • A small amount of pink or red yarn or thread for the mouth. I separated a strand of worsted-weight yarn for the mouth.
  • Stuffing
  • Yarn needle for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.

Stitches Used:

  • Ch – chain
  • Sl St – slip stitch
  • SC – single crochet
  • HDC – half double crochet
  • DC – double crochet
  • INV DEC – invisible single crochet decrease – insert hook into front loop of next stitch, then insert your hook into the front loop of the following stitch (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 remaining loops on hook.  There are many video tutorials of the invisible decrease on YouTube, if needed.

Important Notes:

  • Magic Circle – Make a circle with your yarn, insert crochet hook into circle and draw up a loop. Chain one and then start making the stitches of round 1 into the ring. If you are unsure of how to make a magic circle, check out a YouTube video tutorial.
  • Continuous Rounds – Most of this pattern is worked up in continuous rounds, which means that you will not be joining the last stitch of the round with the first one. Instead you’ll need to keep track of where each round started and how many stitches you have made because after each round you’ll continue right on to the stitches of the next round (with no join).  It is useful to use a stitch marker (or a piece of yarn) to mark the start or end of each round.
  • Joining Rounds – A few parts of this pattern are worked in joining rounds, which means that you will be joining the last stitch of the round to the first one with a slip stitch and than chaining 1 before continuing with the next round. Make the first stitch of the next round in the same stitch as the chain 1.
  • Color Changes (when working in continuous rounds)  – When working in continuous rounds (without joining), color changes might be more obvious on the arms. When you attach the arms to the body, try to line up the color change towards the back of the body or on the inside of the arm where the where it touches the body so the color change is in a less visible place.
  • Color Changes (when working in joining rounds) – When working in joined rounds and making a color change, I like to use this method: Work the last stitch of the round as you would normally right up until the last yarn over. Yarn over in the new color and then slip stitch to the top of the first stitch of the round. Pull the tail tight and crochet a few stitches over it to keep it in place.

Body

Add stuffing to the body as you go. Remember to stuff firmly, but not so firm that you can see the stuffing through the stitches. Make sure the top of the body is well stuffed before sewing on the head. This will help keep the head from wobbling when it is sewn on.

Round 1: In white, magic circle, chain 1, make 6 SC into ring (6)

Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (18)

Round 4: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 2, repeat around (24)

Round 5: 2 SC in first, SC in next 3, repeat around (30)

Round 6: 2 SC in first, SC in next 4, repeat around (36)

Rounds 7-11: SC in each stitch around (36)

Round 12: INV DEC, SC in next 4, repeat around (30) 

Round 13: SC each stitch around (30)

Round 14: work this round in back loops only. SC in each stitch around. (30)

Round 15: SC in each stitch around (30)

Rounds 16-17: SC in each stitch around (30)

Round 18: INV DEC, SC in next 3, repeat around (24)

Rounds 19-20: SC in each stitch around (24)

Round 21: INV DEC, SC in next 2, repeat around (18)

Rounds 22-23: SC in each stitch around (18)

Round 24: INV DEC, SC in next stitch, repeat around (12)

Make sure you have added enough stuffing to the body.

Then fasten off, leave a long tail to sew head onto body. Do not sew body closed.

Skirt Instructions

The skirt is worked in joining rounds, not continuous rounds. This means you will join the last stitch to the first with a slip stitch, chain 2 and then continue with the next round.

Round 1: Make a slip knot with white yarn (I used white sparkle yarn). With the base of the body facing towards you, join the slip knot through one of the front loop stitches of round 14. You will be able to see the front loops because they are where you made the round of back loop stitches. Chain 2, DC in same stitch and in each stitch around. Join to top of first DC with a Sl St. Chain 2. (30)

Round 2: 2 DC in first stitch, DC in next stitch. Repeat around. Join, ch 2. (45)

Rounds 3-5: DC in each stitch around. Join, ch. 2 (45)

Round 6: *Sl st to next stitch, skip a stitch, 4 DC in next stitch, skip next stitch. Repeat from *around. Join to first slip stitch of the round.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Legs (make 2)

The legs are worked in continuous rounds. Stuff the legs as you go. I mostly stuffed the boot/foot area and then very gently stuffed the rest of the leg. If you add too much stuffing towards the top of the leg, it will affect your angel’s ability to sit.

Round 1: In silver, magic circle, chain 1, 6 SC into ring (6)

Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (18)

Rounds 4-5: SC in each stitch around (18)

Round 6: SC in first 5 stitches, INV DEC 4 times, SC in last 5 (14)

Round 7: SC in first 5 stitches, INV DEC 2 times, SC in last 5 (12)

Rounds 8-10: SC in each stitch around (12). Change to skin color at the end of round 10.

Round 11: Work this round in back loops only. SC in each stitch around (12)

Rounds 12-28: SC in each stitch around (12)

Fasten off, sew top of leg closed. Make sure that you sew the top closed with the front of the boot/foot facing you.  Continue to boot cuff instructions below.

Boot Cuffs

Next, make the boot cuffs at the top of each boot. Make a slip knot and join in one of the front loop stitches at the back of the boot. You will be able to see the front loop stitches because they are where you worked the round of back loop only stitches in making the legs.  Chain 1, HDC in same stitch and in each stitch around. Join with a Sl St into top of first HDC. Fasten off. Use your yarn needle to hide the ends of the yarn inside the legs/boot.

Arms (make 2)

Gently stuff the arms as you go, adding stuffing only to the bottom third (hand/wrist area).

Round 1: In skin color, magic circle, ch 1, 6 SC into ring (6)

Round 2: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (9)

Rounds 3-4: SC in each stitch around (9). Change color to white for the dress sleeve.

Rounds 5-17: SC in each stitch around (9)

Fasten off, sew the top of the arms closed. Leave a long tail to sew onto body.

Wings

Make 2 wings.

Row 1: Chain 14, HDC in 3rd chain from hook and in each chain across. Ch 2, turn (12 HDC)

Row 2: HDC in first 10 stitches across (leaving the last two), ch 2, turn (10 HDC)

Row 3: HDC in each stitch across, ch 2, turn (10 HDC)

Row 4: HDC in first 8 stitches across (leaving the last two), ch 2, turn (8 HDC)

Row 5: HDC in each stitch across (8 HDC)

Fasten off, leave a long tail to sew onto the angel.

Head

The head is worked from bottom to top in continuous rounds.

Round 1: In skin color, magic circle, chain 1 and make 6 SC stitches into ring (6)

Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (18)

Round 4: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 2, repeat around (24)

Round 5: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 3, repeat around (30)

Round 6: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 4, repeat around (36)

Rounds 7-15: SC in each stitch around (36)

*Insert safety eyes between rounds 12 and 13. I placed them 6 stitches apart. If you are adding eyelashes, it is easier to stitch them on now before securing the eyes in place (see photo). The mouth can be sewn on after head is completed.

Round 16: INV DEC, SC next 4 stitches, repeat around (30)

*Start stuffing the head here before the opening gets too small. Continue stuffing as you go.

Round 17: INV DEC, SC next 3 stitches, repeat around (24)

Round 18: INV DEC, SC next 2 stitches, repeat around (18)

Round 19: INV DEC, SC next stitch, repeat around (12)

Round 20: INV DEC around (6)

Make sure you have added enough stuffing to the head. Fasten off and sew hole closed. Weave in ends.

Wig Cap

Round 1: In hair color, magic circle, chain 1 and make 6 SC stitches into ring (6)

Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (18)

Round 4: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 2, repeat around (24)

Round 5: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 3, repeat around (30)

Round 6: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 4, repeat around (36)

Rounds 7-8: SC in each stitch around (36)

Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew wig cap onto the head later.

Next you’ll be adding hair to the wig cap. See instructions below.

Adding Hair to the Wig Cap

There are a few different ways you can add the hair to the wig cap. I used the method in this video by Sweet Softies. Note that she adds a lot more hair to her doll that you need to for the angel, depending on how you are planning to style her hair.

Start by cutting a bunch of pieces of yarn to use for the hair.  You’ll be folding the pieces in half so be sure to make them long enough (mine were about 16 inches long). You can easily trim any excess off after you style the hair.  I made a bunch of strands quickly by wrapping yarn around a book and then cutting one side.

Next, take two strands of yarn and tie a knot in the middle, then send one end of the yarn through one stitch and the other end through another (either the stitch beside or one nearby).  I added hair in each stitch around the outside edge of the wig cap and then added some through the middle from the front to the back to create a part. If you are using this method to add the hair, I recommend you watch the video above to help you. Feel free to add the hair in a different way, if you prefer.  Set wig cap aside and continue to angel assembly instructions below.

Assembling your Angel

  1. Sew the legs onto the body: Line up where you want the legs to be on the body. I lined them up around the middle of the bottom the body, but a bit more towards the back. This is so the angel can sit without falling over.  I also only sewed around the top of the legs so that they could either hang straight or fold up for sitting.  **Note: If you’d like your angel to sit independently, make sure you test where you put the legs to make sure your angel can sit, before fastening off your yarn. When you add the head and hair, there is more weight that may cause your angel to tip over. If she feels too tippy, you might need to move the legs back a bit. The back of the skirt can also help support her sitting.

2. Sew the head onto the body: Make sure the top of the body is stuffed well all the way up to the neck area. Then line up the head on the body, making sure to keep the eyes in the center so the face is lined up with the legs. You will also be able to see where the body matches with a round on the base of the head, which will help you place your stitches. Use the tail of white yarn from the body and sew in and out of each stitch around until your head is stable. It’s also a good idea to add more stitches around the head a couple more times and then through the middle, just to make sure it’s nice and sturdy and not wobbly. I find it handy to use sewing pins to help keep the head in place and lined up on the body while sewing.

3. Sew the arms onto the body: Attach the arms on the sides of the body in the second round of stitches from the top. Sew in and out of each stitch at the top of the arms. Weave in ends.

4. Sew the Wig Cap onto the Head: Place the wig cap on the head and line up the part in the middle. Use your yarn needle and the tail of yarn left from making the wig cap to sew the cap onto the head. Sew up and down through every other stitch around the edge of the cap, passing through a stitch on the head with each stitch. See this video by Sweet Softies if you need help sewing the wig cap onto the head.

5. Style the hair: You can style the hair however you choose. I kept it parted in the middle and pulled some from each side and tied it in the back with a piece of yarn to make a little half-ponytail to keep it out of her face.  Then I trimmed off excess hair to shorten it a bit.  See the hair from the back in the photo below.

6. Make the belt and sew it on: Make a chain long enough to fit around the middle of the angel. Fasten off and use your yarn needle to sew it on right above the ridge where the skirt is attached. I started at the back and then just added one stitch at the sides and front to keep the belt in place.

7. Sew on the wings: Attach the wings to the back of the angel, giving them a little bit of an upwards angle.

8. Make and sew on the halo:  The halo is optional, depending on the look you want for your angel. You could also make a chain and sew it on as a headband, if you prefer.

To make the halo: Chain 23. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each stitch across. Use your yarn needle and the yarn tail to sew the straight chain into a circle. Leave one tail to sew onto the angel.  Next, place the halo on top of the angel’s head and use your yarn needle and the yarn tail to attach the halo to the head. I loosely attached mine, with one stitch at the back and one at the front. Hide your yarn inside the head before cutting.

9. Add a mouth: Use a piece of pink/red thread or separate a single strand from a piece of worsted weight yarn.  Sew on a smile using your yarn needle. I love using this method by K and J dolls (http://kandjdolls.blogspot.com/2014/07/how-to-embroider-mouth.html) to add mouths to my amigurumi projects (note that I’m using the “large doll” method, rather than the one for small dolls).

10. You’re all done! Now sit back and enjoy the beautiful angel doll that you made and be sure to show her off to all your family and friends! I hope you loved making her as much as I did!

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*You may make and sell any items made from my patterns, but please link back to my blog or Loops & Love Crochet as the designer. Please do not copy this pattern or photos and share as your own, in part or in whole.  Instead, link back to the Loops and Love Crochet blog (especially when selling items you make from my patterns). Thank you!

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