Puppy Lovey – Free Crochet Pattern

This Puppy Lovey is the perfect cuddling companion for little ones! As soon as I finished making this one, my 3 year old daughter insisted that it was now hers and needed to sleep in her bed every night from now on.  I can see more animal loveys in my future crocheting. I am feeling the need to make ALL the animals! 😉

I made this puppy lovey more “girly” with my daughters in mind, but it would also be super cute in any color combination and it would be easy to leave off the eyelashes and bow. A couple of my testers used the bow as a little bowtie on their puppy lovey and it also looked adorable. I’ll be sharing those photos on my Instagram feed, so be sure to check them out!

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If you looking for another cute and fun lovey pattern, check out my Kitty Lovey crochet pattern!

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Materials:
Stitches Used:
  • Sl St – Slip Stitch
  • MC – magic circle
  • SC – single crochet
  • DC – double crochet
  • TR – treble crochet
  • Cluster V-stitch – Make 2 double crochet stitches, chain 1, and make 2 more double crochet stitches – all in the same stitch.
  • INV DEC – invisible single crochet decrease – insert hook into front loop of next stitch, then insert your hook into the front loop of the following stitch (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 remining loops on hook.  There are many tutorials on this on YouTube. Check one out if you’d like to see the invisible decrease in action.
Important Notes:
  • Magic Circle – Make a circle with your yarn, insert crochet hook into circle and draw up a loop. Use this loop to start your first chain 1 of the pattern.
  • Continuous Rounds – The amigurumi parts of this pattern (puppy head, ears, arms) are worked in continuous rounds. Do not join at the end of each round. Use a stitch marker to help you keep count, if needed.
  • Joined Rounds – The blanket part of this pattern is worked in joined rounds. At the end of each round, you will be joining the last stitch of the round to the first stitch with a slip stitch.
  • Starting Each Round – Start the first stitch of each round in the same stitch as the chain 2. Chain stitches do not count towards the stitch count of each round.
  • Color Changes – change colors at the end of the round before joining. Complete the last double crochet of the round until the last yarn over. Yarn over with new color and pull through the last step of the double crochet stitch. So, your double crochet stitch will go like this: Yarn over, insert hook into last the stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, then yarn over with new color and pull through the last 2 loops on hook. Then join with a slip stitch to the first stitch of the round.  Work your next stitches over the tail of the first color. Make sure it is secure before cutting it off.
  • Finished Size –  When complete, this puppy lovey is about 11 inches tall from the top of head to the bottom of blanket. When the blanket is laid flat, it is about 17 inches wide.

The Pattern

Lovey Blanket

For the blanket part of the lovey, I alternated working two rounds of purple and two rounds of grey, with a round of off-white in between each color.  To make the lovey blanket as pictured, color A is purple, B is grey, and C is off-white.

*You can easily change the length of the lovey blanket depending on your size preference or how you want the color pattern to look. If you want a shorter lovey blanket, just stop wherever you’d like (for example, maybe you only want to do 13 rounds instead of all 15 to make it about an inch shorter). If you want to make it longer, you can continue the stitch pattern to add extra rounds after round 15. Just increase the stitch numbers by one for each round (if you look at the rounds below, you’ll get the hang of the stitch pattern.

Remember to use your 5.5mm crochet hook for this part.

Round 1: In color A, magic circle, ch 2, 12 DC in circle. Join to first DC. (12 DC)

Round 2: Ch 2, cluster V-stitch in first stitch, skip a stitch, cluster V-stitch in next stitch, repeat around. Join with a sl st to first stitch. (6 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 3: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first stitch, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next stitch, *skip a stitch, DC in next stitch, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Change to color C (instructions in notes above). Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 12 DC stitches)

The cluster V-stitches will form the points of the star shaped blanket. If you are unsure of how to place your double crochet stitches around the V-stitches, here is a photo to help:

Round 4: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 2 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 2 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 2 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 2 stitches. Repeat from * around. Change to color B.  Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 24 DC stitches)

Round 5: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 3 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 3 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 3 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 3 stitches. Repeat from * around.  Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 36 DC stitches)

Round 6: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 4 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 4 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 4 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 4 stitches. Repeat from * around. Change to color C.  Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 48 DC stitches)

Round 7: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 5 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 5 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 5 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 5 stitches. Repeat from * around. Change to color A.  Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 60 DC stitches)

Round 8: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 6 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 6 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 6 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 6 stitches. Repeat from * around. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 72 DC stitches)

Round 9: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 7 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 7 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 7 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 7 stitches. Repeat from * around. Change to color C.  Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 84 DC stitches)

Round 10: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 8 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 8 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 8 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 8 stitches. Repeat from * around. Change to color B.  Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 96 DC stitches)

Round 11: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 9 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 9 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 9 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 9 stitches. Repeat from * around. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 108 DC stitches)

Round 12: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 10 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 10 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 10 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 10 stitches. Repeat from * around. Change to color C.   Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 120 DC stitches)

Round 13: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 11 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 11 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 11 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 11 stitches. Repeat from * around. Change to color A. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 132 DC stitches)

Round 14: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 12 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 12 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 12 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 12 stitches. Repeat from * around. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 144 DC stitches)

Round 15: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 13 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 13 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 13 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 13 stitches. Repeat from * around. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 156 DC stitches)

Fasten off. Weave in all ends. Put the blanket aside for now and begin making the puppy parts, starting with the head.

Puppy Head

The head is worked from the bottom up. Remember to use your 3.5mm crochet hook for this part. 

Add stuffing as you go. Make sure you’ve added enough stuffing to the head before the opening gets too small when you’re working the decrease rounds.

Round 1: Magic circle, chain 1 and make 6 SC stitches into ring (6)

Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (18)

Round 4: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 2, repeat around (24)

Round 5: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 3, repeat around (30)

Round 6: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 4, repeat around (36)

Round 7: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 5, repeat around (42)

Rounds 8-17: SC in each stitch around (42)

*Insert safety eyes between rounds 14 and 15, approximately 8 stitches apart. If you’d like to your puppy to have eyelashes, first place your safety eyes where you’d like them to be, but don’t secure them yet. Next, remove the eyes and use your yarn needle to stitch on the eyelashes. This will create a hole to help you see where you want the eyelashes to go. Then insert the eyes again and secure the back. I’ve included a photo from another one of my patterns to help with this step.

Round 18: INV DEC, SC in next 5 stitches, repeat around (36)

Round 19: INV DEC, SC in next 4 stitches, repeat around (30)

Round 20: INV DEC, SC in next 3 stitches, repeat around (24)

Round 21: INV DEC, SC in next 2 stitches, repeat around (18)

*Make sure you have added enough stuffing to the head by this point.

Round 22: INV DEC, SC in next stitch, repeat around (12)

Round 23: INV DEC around (6)

Fasten off and sew bottom of head closed. Weave in ends and then cut your yarn.

Snout, Nose, and Mouth

 Round 1: In off-white, Magic circle, chain 1, make 6 SC stitches into ring (6)

*If you are going to use a safety nose, do not pull the center ring completely tight yet. Leave the yarn tail out so you can pull the circle tight later. If you’re embroidering on the nose, you can go ahead and pull it tight and work over your yarn tail.

Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (18)

Rounds 4-5: SC in each stitch around (18)

Fasten off and cut yarn, leaving a long tail to sew the snout onto the head.

Insert safety nose into the middle of the ring, pull the yarn tail tight to secure the ring around the nose, and then fasten the back of the safety nose. Next use your yarn needle to stitch on the mouth. I just made one stitch going downwards a couple rounds and then made a stitch on each side to form a mouth.

Add some stuffing to the snout and then place on the puppy’s face.  I centered the snout on the face in the middle of the eyes. The top of the snout lines up with the middle of the eyes vertically as well.  You can pin the snout in place before you start sewing, if you’d like. Use your yarn needle to sew on the snout, making sure to pass through each of the stitches around the edge and then through a stitch on the head as you work your way around the snout.

Ears (make 2)

Round 1: In grey, Magic circle, ch 1, 6 SC stitches into ring (6)

Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)

Rounds 3-4: SC in each stitch around (12)

Round 5: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (18)

Rounds 6-17: SC in each stitch around (18)

Round 18: INV DEC, SC in next stitch, repeat around (12)

Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew onto the head.

Use your yarn needle to sew the ears on the head. I lined mine up starting in the 4th round from the top of the head.  See photos below for reference.

Bow

Make a magic circle, chain 3. Work 3 treble crochet stitches into the ring, chain 3 and make a slip stitch to the center of the ring. Chain 3 again, make 3 treble crochet stitches, chain 3, and slip stitch to center ring again.  Wrap the yarn ends around the middle of the bow a few times. I wrapped one of the yarn tails around one way and then went the opposite way with the other yarn tail. Use your yarn tails to make a knot at the back of the bow. Weave one of the yarn tails in and cut yarn. The other tail will be used to sew the bow onto the puppy’s head.  Click here for the crochet bow video tutorial.

Arms (make 2)

Gently stuff the arms, mostly towards the bottom portion of the arm.

Round 1: Magic circle, chain 1 and make 6 SC stitches into ring (6)

Round 2: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (9)

Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 2 stitches, repeat around (12)

Rounds 4-6: SC in each stitch around (12)

Round 7: INV DEC, SC in next 2 stitches, repeat around (9)

Rounds 8-17: SC in each stitch around (9)

Finish stuffing and the sew the top closed. Leave a long enough tail to sew on to the blanket (instructions to follow).

Assembling the Lovey

Now it is time to complete the puppy lovey by sewing the head and the arms to the blanket. We will start by sewing on the arms and then the head. Start by laying the blanket flat and picking the side you’d like to use for the front and center of the lovey.  Next, sew the arms to the blanket directly across from each other, one on each side of the center round of the blanket, leaving a little space to sew on the head in the middle.  Make sure to sew in and out of each stitch at the end of the arms, passing in and out of a stitch on the blanket with each stitch.  Keep an eye on the back of the blanket to make sure that the stitches aren’t showing up too much on the other side.

To attach the head, I used a piece of the same purple yarn that I used for the first few rounds of the lovey.  This was to hide the stitches a bit better on the bottom of the blanket, but you can also use the same white yarn you used for the head.  Place the head in the middle of the blanket and line it up so the puppy’s face is centered to where you’d like it to be.  Use your yarn needle to sew around the stitches of the bottom of the head, in the 2nd or 3rd round from the bottom, and passing in and out of the stitches in the middle round of the blanket. The tighter you sew the head, the less wobbly it will be.

You’re all done your Puppy Lovey! I hope you loved making this pattern!

**Want to be kept in the loop? Be sure to like Loops and Love Crochet on Facebook and join the Loops and Love Crochet Group! Don’t forget to follow @loopsandlovecrochet on Instagram! Remember to tag Loops and Love Crochet when you post your fnished projects on social media! I’d love to see them! **

*You may make and sell any items made from my patterns, but please link back to my blog or Loops & Love Crochet as the designer. Please do not copy this pattern or photos and share as your own, in part or in whole.  Instead, link back to the Loops and Love Crochet blog (especially when selling items you make from my patterns). Thank you!

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1 Comment

  1. I would love to make this for my 3 granddaughters.

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