This Criss Cross Ear Warmer is another addition to my criss cross stitch obsession I’ve had lately, which has turned into an entire series! It works up SUPER fast and has awesome texture. I have been loving the effect of Red Heart Super Saver Stripes lately, but I know this ear warmer looks great in any color combination, or a single color as well!
This pattern includes instructions for toddler, child, teen, and adult sizes.
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The Criss Cross Stitch Pattern has now become a collection! Now, not only does this collection include the Criss Cross Beanie and Messy Bun Beanie, it also features an Ear Warmer, Infinity Scarf, and Fingerless Gloves! Click here to find all of the details for the Criss Cross Crochet Colletion! Or continue on below for the Criss Cross Ear Warmer pattern.
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- Worsted weight yarn – You can use any worsted-weight yarn for this project. I had fun using Red Heart Super Saver Stripes. Referring to the photo above, the top ear warmer is in Polo Stripe, the bottom in Flamenco Stripe. I found that the Red Heart Super Saver yarn is a bit of a “thicker” worsted-weight yarn. If you are substituting with another worsted-weight yarn, try to pick one comparable. If you go with a “lighter” worsted-weight (like Caron Simply Soft, Red Heart Soft, and similar), you may need to change hook size or start with a longer chain/foundation to ensure it will fit properly. See my ear warmer sizing chart below.
- 5.5 mm crochet hook (I crochet a little on the tighter side and I used a 5.5 hook. If you crochet loosely, it might be a good idea to go down to a 5.0mm hook so your ear warmer isn’t too big.
- Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
- Ch – chain
- Sl St – slip stitch
- SC – single crochet
- DC – double crochet
- FPSC – front post single crochet
- FPDC – front post double crochet
- BPDC – back post double crochet
- FDC – foundation double crochet
- 8 DC stitches = 2 inches
- Always start the first stitch of the row/round in the same space as the chain 1.
- Chain stitches at the start of each round do not count towards stitch count.
- After the starting chain/foundation, this pattern is worked in joining rounds. When you finish the stitches of one round, you will be joining to the first stitch of the round with a slip stitch, chaining 1 (or 2) and then starting the next round of the pattern, starting in same stitch as chain.
- When you work your starting chain or foundation, measure its length and refer to the chart below to make sure the length fits in the range for the size you are making. You can add or remove chain/foundation stitches as needed to get the desired size. However, for the criss cross stitches to work correctly, your starting foundation/chain will need to be an EVEN number of stitches. I also found that the size is best if the starting chain/foundation length is about 2 inches less than the head circumference.
I have included the PHOTO TUTORIAL for this pattern at the end of this post. There is also a shorter VIDEO TUTORIAL on this page for the Criss Cross Beanie, but the stitch pattern is similar to the Criss Cross Ear Warmer. If you d like the full version of the video tutorial, click here to be taken to the video on YouTube.
Below are the number of starting foundation/chain stitches needed for each size of ear warmer. Each round should have the same number of stitches as your starting stitch count.
Toddler: 64 stitches
Child: 68 stitches
Teen: 70 stitches
Adult: 72 stitches
Row/Round 1: FDC the number of stitches needed for the size you are making (see above). Join with a slip stitch to the top of the first FDC stitch. Make sure you keep the correct (front) side of the work facing out. Chain 2. There will be a gap at the bottom where the band is not connected (see photo tutorial). You can use your yarn needle to sew it together now, or leave it until the end.
If you need help with your FDC stitches, check out my Foundation Double Crochet Photo Tutorial.
*If you prefer to start with a chain rather than the foundation stitches, the instructions are:
Chain to your desired number of stitches (see size guide or my gauge). Chain 2 more, DC in 3rd stitch from hook and in each stitch across. Join to top of first DC with a slip stitch. Chain 2. Continue with pattern below.
Round 2: FPDC around first stitch (around first DC from previous round, not the chain), BPDC around next stitch. Continue alternating FPDC and BPDC around. Join to top of first FPDC stitch, chain 1.
Round 3: SC in each stitch around. Join, chain 1.
Round 4: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure you go around each of the stitches from the previous round, even the last one that is hard to get into sometimes. Join with a slip stitch to first FPSC. Then slip stitch back to the first SC of the previous round (this is the stitch right behind the first slip stitch. It will be right beside your join from the previous round and is sometimes a bit tricky to get in to). See photo tutorial. This is so your next round is not worked in the post stitches. Chain 1.
Round 5: SC in each stitch around. Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches). Join, chain 2.
Round 6: Work criss-cross DC stitches around: Skip first stitch, DC in second stitch. Go back and DC in skipped stitch (see photo tutorial below). Continue around. Join, chain 1.
Round7: SC in each stitch around. Join, chain 1.
Round 8: FPSC in each stitch around. Join with a slip stitch to first FPSC. Then slip stitch back to the first SC of the previous round. Chain 1.
Round 9: SC in each stitch around. Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches). Join, chain 2.
Round 10: DC in each stitch around. Join, chain 2.
Round 11: FPDC around first stitch, BPDC around next stitch. Continue alternating FPDC and BPDC around. Join to top of first FPDC stitch, fasten off.
Weave in ends and cut yarn. If you did not sew together the bottom of the ear warmer, you can do that now too, weave in those ends, and cut your yarn.
That’s it! You’re all done!
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