Blog Post

Criss Cross Beanie

I’ve been working on this crochet beanie for a little while! I wanted to design a bottom-up beanie and this is what I came up with! I hope you like it! I made my beanies with Red Heart Super Saver Stripes yarn, but my testers had fun making them in single colors or in an Ombre style, which look amazing too! The possibilities are endless! Whatever color combination/style you use, the criss cross stitches and the post stitches will give it lots of texture.

My daughters love their new beanies! We are all ready for winter now!

This pattern is written in 3 sizes: Toddler/Preschooler, Child, and Teen/Adult. I also included a step-by-step photo tutorial section (scroll all the way to the bottom!) to help with some of the stitches/instructions.

This pattern is available for FREE on this website. If you’d like an ad-free, printable PDF version, you may purchase it for a small fee from my Etsy or Ravelry shops. Thank you so much for supporting Loops & Love Crochet!

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Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. This is done at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting Loops & Love Crochet!

If you are interested in a messy bun version of this beanie, check out my Criss Cross Messy Bun Beanie! It has all of the awesomeness of the Criss Cross Beanie, but has an opening for your bun/ponytail.

Continue on below for the Criss Cross Beanie pattern! Have fun!



Materials:

  • Worsted weight yarn – You can use any worsted-weight yarn for this project. I had fun using Red Heart Super Saver Stripes. Referring to the photo above, from left to right, the colors are:
  • Cool Stripe, Flamenco Stripe, and Polo Stripe
  • I found that the Red Heart Super Saver yarn is a bit of a “thicker” worsted-weight yarn. If you are substituting with another worsted-weight yarn, try to pick one comparable. If you go with a “lighter” worsted-weight (like Caron Simply Soft, Red Heart Soft, and similar), you may also need to go up a hook size so the hat is still the correct size.
  • 5.5 mm crochet hook (I crochet a little on the tighter side and I used a 5.5 hook. If you crochet loosely, it might be a good idea to go down to a 5.0mm hook so your hat isn’t too big).  I honestly love the set of Clover Amour hooks! They are so nice on the hands and move through the yarn so easily!
  • Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)

     

Stitches Used:

  • Ch – chain
  • Sl St – slip stitch
  • SC – single crochet
  • DC – double crochet
  • SC DEC (or Sc2tog) – single crochet decrease
  • DC DEC (or Dc2tog) – double crochet decrease
  • FPSC – front post single crochet

Gauge

  • 8 rows of ribbing = approx. 2” long
  • 8 sc = 2”

Important Notes:

  • Always start the first stitch of the round in the same space as the chain 1.
  • Chain stitches at the start of each round do not count towards stitch count.
  • This pattern is worked in joining rounds. When you finish the stitches of one round, you will be joining to the first stitch of the round with a slip stitch, chaining 1 (or 2) and then starting the next round of the pattern, starting in same stitch as chain.
  • When you are making the ribbed band, you should only need to stretch it gently to fit around your head.
  • I crochet a little on the tighter side. If you crochet quite loosely, you may need to go down a hook size to get the desired hat size. If you are using a yarn a little lighter than the Red Heart Super Saver yarn, you’ll likely need to go up a hook size. Check the gauge of the pattern. If you are unsure about size, you can start with crocheting some of the ribbing and then measure it to check that your gauge matches.
  • I have a photo tutorial section at the end of the pattern to help with the instructions and stitches. I hope you find the step by step photos helpful!




Toddler/Preschooler Size

Age: About 2-4 years

Head circumference: 18-19.5”

Hat height: approx. 7”

Ribbed Band:

Chain 7

Row 1: SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across. Chain 1, turn. (6)

Row 2: SC in back loops only across. Chain 1, turn. (6)

Rows 3-60: Repeat row 2.

Fold ribbing in half and join ends with a slip stitch. Then slip stitch in each stitch across. When you get to the end, flip the ribbing so the stitches are on the inside and your loop is at the top. Chain 1 and start the instructions below for the hat.  Your first SC stitch will be in the same stitch as the chain 1.

(See photo tutorial below)

Hat body:

Round 1: SC in first stitch (same stitch as chain 1) and in each stitch around. Join with a sl st to first stitch, chain 2. (60)

Round 2: Work criss-cross DC stitches around: Skip first stitch, DC in next stitch. Go back and DC in skipped stitch (see photo tutorial below). Continue around. Join, chain 1.  (60 DC stitches)

Round 3: SC in each stitch around. Join, chain 1.  (60)

Round 4: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure you go around each of the stitches from the previous round, even the last one that is hard to get into sometimes. Join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the previous round (see photo tutorial). This is so your next round is not worked in the post stitches. Chain 1. (60)

Round 5: SC in each stitch around. Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches). Join, chain 2. (60)

Round 6: Criss-cross DC stitches around. Join, chain 1. (60)

Round 7: SC in each stitch around. Join, chain 1. (60)

Round 8: FPSC in each stitch around. Slip stitch to first FPSC and then slip stitch back to first SC stitch of the previous round. Chain 1.  (60)

Round 9: SC in each stitch around (working in the stitches behind the post stitches). Join, chain 2. (60)

Round 10: Criss-cross DC stitches around. Join, chain 1. (60)

Round 11: SC in each stitch around. Join, chain 1. (60)

Round 12: FPSC in each stitch around. Slip stitch to first FPSC and then slip stitch back to first SC stitch of the previous round. Chain 1.  (60)

Round 13: SC DEC, SC in next 3 stitches (working in the stitches behind the post stitches). Repeat around. Join, chain 2. (48)

Round 14: Criss-cross DC stitches around. Join, chain 1. (48)

Round 15: SC in each stitch around. Join, chain 1. (48)

Round 16: FPSC in each stitch around. Slip stitch to first FPSC and then slip stitch back to first SC stitch of the previous round. Chain 1.  (48)

Round 17: SC DEC, SC in next 2 stitches (working in the stitches behind the post stitches). Repeat around. Join, chain 2. (36)

Round 18: Criss-cross DC stitches around. Join, chain 1. (36)

Round 19: SC DEC, SC in next stitch. Repeat around. Join, chain 1. (24)

Round 20: SC DEC around. Join. Chain 1. (12)

Round 21: SC around. Join. Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew top of hat. (12)

Closing the top of the hat: Use your yarn needle to run yarn under the front loops of each stitch around. When you are through all of the front loops, pull yarn tight to close hole. Sew around the stitches in the circle one more time and then weave in ends before cutting yarn. (See photo tutorial below)




Child Size

Age: About 5-10 years

Head circumference: 19.5-21”

Hat height: approx. 7.5”

Ribbed Band:

Chain 7

Row 1: SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across. Chain 1, turn. (6)

Row 2: SC in back loops only across. Chain 1, turn. (6)

Rows 3-66: Repeat row 2.

Fold ribbing in half and join ends with a slip stitch. Then slip stitch in each stitch across. When you get to the end, flip the ribbing so the stitches are on the inside and your loop is at the top. Chain 1 and start the instructions below for the hat.  Your first SC stitch will be in the same stitch as the chain 1.

(See photo tutorial below)

Hat body:

Round 1: SC in first stitch (same stitch as chain 1) and in each stitch around. Join with a sl st to first stitch, chain 2. (66)

Round 2: Work criss-cross DC stitches around: Skip first stitch, DC in next stitch. Go back and DC in skipped stitch (see photo tutorial below). Continue around. Join, chain 1.        (66 DC stitches)

Round 3: SC in each stitch around. Join, chain 1.  (66)

Round 4: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure you go around each of the stitches from the previous round, even the last one that is hard to get into sometimes. Join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the previous round (see photo tutorial). This is so your next round is not worked in the post stitches.  Chain 1. (66)

Round 5: SC in each stitch around. Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches). Join, chain 2. (66)

Round 6: Criss-cross DC stitches around. Join, chain 1. (66)

Round 7: SC in each stitch around. Join, chain 1. (66)

Round 8: FPSC in each stitch around. Slip stitch to first FPSC and then slip stitch back to first SC stitch of the previous round. Chain 1.  (66)

Round 9: SC in each stitch around (working in the stitches behind the post stitches). Join, chain 2. (66)

Round 10: Criss-cross DC stitches around. Join, chain 1. (66)

Round 11: SC in each stitch around. Join, chain 1. (66)

Round 12: FPSC in each stitch around. Slip stitch to first FPSC and then slip stitch back to first SC stitch of the previous round. Chain 1.  (66)

Round 13: SC DEC, SC in next 4 stitches (working in the stitches behind the post stitches). Repeat around. Join, chain 2. (55)

Round 14: DC in first stitch. Criss-cross DC in rest of stitches around. Join, chain 1. (55)

Round 15: SC in each stitch around. Join, chain 1. (55)

Round 16: FPSC in each stitch around. Slip stitch to first FPSC and then slip stitch back to first SC stitch of the previous round. Chain 1.  (55)

Round 17: SC DEC, SC in next 3 stitches (working in the stitches behind the post stitches). Repeat around. Join, chain 2. (44)

Round 18: Criss-cross DC stitches around. Join, chain 2. (44)

Round 19: Dc2tog, DC in next 2 stitches. Repeat around. Join, chain 1. (33)

Round 20: SC DEC, SC in next stitch. Repeat around. Join, chain 1. (22)

Round 21: SC DEC around. Join. Chain 1. (11)

Round 22: SC around. Join. Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew top of hat. (11)

Closing the top of the hat: Use your yarn needle to run yarn under the front loops of each stitch around. When you are through all of the front loops, pull yarn tight to close hole. Sew around the stitches in the circle one more time and then weave in ends before cutting yarn. (See photo tutorial below)


Teen/Adult Size

Head circumference: 21.5-23

Hat height: approx. 8.75”

Note: For teen or small adult heads, you may want to go down to a 5.0mm hook on the band to get a snugger fit.

Ribbed Band:

Chain 9

Row 1: SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across. Chain 1, turn. (8)

Row 2: SC in back loops only across. Chain 1, turn. (8)

Rows 3-70: Repeat row 2.

Fold ribbing in half and join ends with a slip stitch. Then slip stitch in each stitch across. When you get to the end, flip the ribbing so the stitches are on the inside and your loop is at the top. Chain 1 and start the instructions below for the hat.  Your first SC stitch will be in the same stitch as the chain 1.

(See photo tutorial below)

Hat body:

Round 1: SC in first stitch (same stitch as chain 1) and in each stitch around. Join with a sl st to first stitch, chain 2. (70)

Round 2: Work criss-cross DC stitches around: Skip first stitch, DC in next stitch. Go back and DC in skipped stitch (see photo tutorial below). Continue around. Join, chain 1.        (70 DC stitches)

Round 3: SC in each stitch around. Join, chain 1.  (70)

Round 4: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure you go around each of the stitches from the previous round, even the last one that is hard to get into sometimes. Join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the previous round (see photo tutorial). This is so your next round is not worked in the post stitches.  Chain 1. (70)

Round 5: SC in each stitch around. Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches). Join, chain 2. (70)

Round 6: Criss-cross DC stitches around. Join, chain 1. (70)

Round 7: SC in each stitch around. Join, chain 1. (70)

Round 8: FPSC in each stitch around. Slip stitch to first FPSC and then slip stitch back to first SC stitch of the previous round. Chain 1.  (70)

Round 9: SC in each stitch around (working in the stitches behind the post stitches). Join, chain 2. (70)

Round 10: Criss-cross DC stitches around. Join, chain 1. (70)

Round 11: SC in each stitch around. Join, chain 1. (70)

Round 12: FPSC in each stitch around. Slip stitch to first FPSC and then slip stitch back to first SC stitch of the previous round. Chain 1.  (70)

Round 13: SC in each stitch around (working in the stitches behind the post stitches). Join, chain 2. (70)

Round 14: Criss-cross DC stitches around. Join, chain 1. (70)

Round 15: SC in each stitch around. Join, chain 1. (70)

Round 16: FPSC in each stitch around. Slip stitch to first FPSC and then slip stitch back to first SC stitch of the previous round. Chain 1.  (70)

Round 17: SC DEC, SC in next 3 stitches (working in the stitches behind the post stitches). Repeat around. Join, chain 2. (56)

Round 18: Criss-cross DC stitches around. Join, chain 1. (56)

Round 19: SC in each stitch around. Join, chain 1. (56)

Round 20: FPSC in each stitch around. Slip stitch to first FPSC and then slip stitch back to first SC stitch of the previous round. Chain 1.  (56)

Round 21: SC DEC, SC in next 2 stitches (working in the stitches behind the post stitches). Repeat around. Join, chain 2. (42)

Round 22: Criss-cross DC stitches around. Join, chain 2. (42)

Round 23: Dc2tog, DC in next stitch. Repeat around. Join, chain 1. (28)

Round 24: SC DEC around. Join. Chain 1. (14)

Round 25: SC around. Join. Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew top of hat. (14)

Closing the top of the hat: Use your yarn needle to run yarn under the front loops of each stitch around. When you are through all of the front loops, pull yarn tight to close hole. Sew around the stitches in the circle one more time and then weave in ends before cutting yarn. (See photo tutorial below)




PHOTO TUTORIAL

 

 




 

 

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14 Comments

  1. Ginger Thibodeaux says:

    I love this hat can’t wait to make some. It can be for girl or boy

  2. Frances Ott says:

    I like this hat

  3. Ruth says:

    Thank you so very much for this beautiful hat pattern and the amazing tutorial. It had to be a lot of work for you to design the pattern and do the tutorial also. You are a very generous person and I appreciate it

    1. Loops and Love Crochet says:

      Thank you so much!! I really appreciate your kind feedback!

  4. Wish this could have been printer friendly instead of getting all the ads.

    1. Loops and Love Crochet says:

      Hi Brenda! Thank you for your comment. I have ads on my site because it helps offset some of the expenses in having a blog, as well all of the time and work that go into designing and posting new patterns and tutorials for free, but I do understand the ads can be annoying. I do also create and offer ad-free printable pdf downloads for my patterns and sell them for a few dollars in my Etsy and Ravelry shops.

  5. Linda Duncan says:

    I’m having a little trouble. I’m not very experienced. After slip stitching the ends I’m trying to sc around. I have holes every other sc because there’s only one loop to go they. Does it sound like I’m doing something wrong

    1. Loops and Love Crochet says:

      It is sometimes a bit tricky to find the stitches around the ribbing. Once you slip stitch the ends, the SC stitches will be at the end of each row of the ribbing. One SC will go at the end of the ridge that sticks up more (this one is the harder one to see, but you can find a spot to stick your hook in there), the next SC will go in the row between the ridges that stick up (this one has more of a defined hole to make the stitch in). The stitches will be quite close together and can almost appear as if they are in the same stitch. I hope that helps! If not, feel free to send me a message through my Facebook page and I can try to help you out more with this SC round.

      1. Linda Duncan says:

        Thank you

  6. Wow! Absolutely love the color of the cap, Will surely try this cap for my son.

  7. Cindy says:

    I am having trouble with the Toddler/Preschool pattern. Row 12 I have 60 stitches then row 13 I only get 40. I have redone it over and over. I am doing *sc dec, sc* using 3 stitches. Help. And thanks for the pattern, I don’t mind the ads at all.

    1. Loops and Love Crochet says:

      Hi Cindy!
      Thank you for your question. When you get to round 13, the instructions are to SC DEC and then SC in the next 3 stitches. Repeat. So you will be doing SC DEC, SC, SC, SC, SEC DEC, SC, SC, SC, and so on…. It sounds like maybe you are are not doing the SC in each of the 3 stitches. Let me know if that helps! Thanks! 🙂

      1. Cindy says:

        Thank you, I was reading it wrong. Very clear now.

        1. Loops and Love Crochet says:

          You’re welcome! 🙂

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